This Independence Day was not just another holiday spent watching the Prime Minister’s speech at the Red Fort or enjoying a day off. This year, we embarked on a journey that was far more immersive and nostalgic. Diving deep into the heart of Purani Dilli, we celebrated the day in a way that truly brought the essence of India’s rich cultural heritage to life. The Kiran Nadar Museum of Art (KNMA) in collaboration with Tales of City, organized a special walk that took us back in time. The project was to experience Independence Day as it was celebrated in the lanes of Old Delhi.
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The Old Delhi Walk: Stepping Back in Time
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Our Old Delhi walk began at Gate #3 of Jama Masjid, where a diverse group of people had gathered, all eager to participate in this unique experience. The walk was led by team members from Tales of City. As we made our way towards Gate #1 of Jama Masjid, the main hub of activity, the familiar sights and sounds of Purani Dilli greeted us. The market in front of Gate #1, a place we often visit during our Ramzan food walks, was bustling with energy. We strolled past iconic eateries like Karim’s and Al Jawahar, manoeuvring through the crowds, rickshaw pullers, and playful children, all of whom added to the vibrant atmosphere.
As we walked, the old buildings around us stood as silent witnesses to the passage of time, their crumbling facades a reminder of an era gone by. Each structure, though weathered, retained a charm that spoke of the history embedded in these lanes. Finally, we arrived at an old house tucked away in the bylanes of Old Delhi, our venue for the evening’s activities.
The Venue: A Terrace with a View
The venue for the event was a terrace on the fourth floor of this old building. The setup was simple yet inviting, with seating arrangements on the floor as well as a few chairs. A microphone was set up, and water was made available for the participants. This was where the Dastangoi session was to take place, an ancient form of storytelling that has been revived in recent years.
The terrace, though modest, was perfect for the gathering of about 30-40 people from various walks of life, all united by their curiosity and enthusiasm for the evening’s program.
The ambiance was intimate, with the fading light of the day casting a warm glow over the space, setting the stage for the storytelling session.
Aai Bo Kaate – Experiencing the city as a museum
The evening was divided into three four parts or so to speak main activities. A Dastangoi storytelling session, kite flying, open-air barbecue food, and then again kite flying in the night with sky lanterns, followed by fireworks. The agenda was to experience the Independence Day Purani Dilli style.
Dastangoi: The Art of Storytelling Revived
The evening began with an introduction to the event and a brief overview of what was to come. Soon after, the Dastangoi session commenced. Dastangoi, an ancient art form of storytelling, was revived in 2005 and has since regained popularity as a powerful medium of cultural expression. The story we were treated to was “Dastan-e-Fehmida” (“The Tale of Fehmida”), a tale about a bold, fearless, and creative woman named Fehmida.
Despite the extreme humidity that evening, the audience was captivated by the performance, listening intently as the story unfolded in a harmonious blend of Hindi and Urdu. The narrative was rich with emotion, and the delivery was both engaging and haunting, transporting us to a different time and place. The Dastangoi session was a true highlight of the evening, a reminder of the power of oral traditions in preserving and sharing stories that reflect the cultural and social fabric of our society.
Patangbaazi: Reliving the Joy of Kite Flying
Following the Dastangoi session, it was time for some Patangbaazi – kite flying, a quintessential activity associated with Independence Day in Delhi. The terrace quickly filled with people eager to get their kites airborne. The vibrant colours of the kites, scattered across the terrace, added to the festive atmosphere. We picked a beautiful kite adorned with the tricolor and an Independence Day message, a nod to the significance of the day.
For many of us, it had been years since we last flew a kite, and the experience brought back a flood of memories from our school days. Families, friends, and neighbours would gather on large terraces to engage in friendly kite-flying competitions. This evening, we relived those moments, spending over an hour flying kites, laughing, and reminiscing about the past. The sky above us was dotted with kites of every hue, creating a mesmerizing spectacle.
Open-Air Barbecue: A Feast Under the Stars
After the kite flying, we took a break to enjoy the food that had been laid out on tables. An open-air barbecue was set up, where chicken tikka and paneer tikka were being grilled. The aroma of the sizzling kebabs wafted through the air, churning our appetites. Served with mint yogurt, the tikkas were simply delicious. Alongside, we were treated to some boiled chana, a healthy and tasty snack.
The meal was rounded off with sheermal, mildly sweet, saffron-flavoured bread, and kheer, a traditional Indian rice pudding. This delightful combination of flavours was the perfect way to recharge before the evening’s next set of activities. The food, much like the event itself, was a celebration of the rich culinary heritage of Old Delhi.
Sky Lanterns: Illuminating the Night Sky
As the sun set, we returned to the terrace for another round of kite flying. However, this time, the focus shifted to something even more magical – sky lanterns. As darkness fell, we noticed that other people on their terraces had begun flying sky lanterns, their soft glow gradually lighting up the night sky.
We were each given packets of sky lanterns to fly, an experience that was new to many of us. The organizers helped us with the process, and soon, one after another, we released these colourful, vibrant lamps into the sky. Watching the lanterns drift upwards, was a sight to behold.
This moment, where the sky was dotted with lanterns, was the showstopper of the evening, a visual representation of the spirit of freedom and unity.
Fireworks: A Spectacular Finale
Just as we thought the evening couldn’t get any better, fireworks suddenly lit up the surroundings. Against the backdrop of the sky lanterns, the fireworks exploded in a riot of colours and sounds. The atmosphere made us nostalgic about Diwali. The combination of the glowing lanterns and the dazzling fireworks made for a truly unforgettable sight.
This was perhaps the most joyous moment of the evening, as the sky was alive with the colours of celebration. The fireworks, a rare sight on Independence Day, added an extra layer of festivity to the occasion, and we couldn’t help but feel a sense of awe and wonder as we watched the display.
A Syncretic Celebration: Unity in Diversity
As the evening drew to a close, we all wished each other a Happy Independence Day and bid farewell. This event was a beautiful example of celebrating Independence Day in its full syncretic glory. Despite differences in age, religion, and background, everyone came together to share the joys of the day. The sense of community that we experienced, the feeling of togetherness, was a reminder of the true spirit of Independence Day – a celebration of freedom, unity, and diversity.
In a time when the world often feels divided, this walk through the lanes of Purani Dilli was a refreshing reminder of the bonds that unite us as a nation. We relived the nostalgia of a time when Independence Day was celebrated as a community festival, with everyone coming together to mark the occasion in their unique ways.
Conclusion: A Day to Remember
The “Aai Bo Kaate” walk organized by the Kiran Nadar Museum of Art in collaboration with Tales of City was a unique way to celebrate Independence Day, offering participants a chance to experience the city as a living museum.
We immersed ourselves in an experience that was both nostalgic and enlightening, one that brought the history and culture of Old Delhi to life. From the ancient art of Dastangoi to the vibrant tradition of Patangbaazi, from the flavors of an open-air barbecue to the magical sight of sky lanterns and fireworks, this was a day that we will remember for years to come.
It was an evening that highlighted the beauty of our shared heritage, the richness of our traditions, and the importance of coming together to celebrate the freedoms that we enjoy today.
This Independence Day, we didn’t just celebrate our nation’s freedom – we celebrated the spirit of Old Delhi, a place where history and culture come alive, where every street and building has a story to tell, and where the past and present coexist in perfect harmony. If you ever get the chance to participate in such a walk, we highly recommend it. It’s not just an event; it’s an experience that will stay with you long after the day is over.
This sounds like such an incredible experience..It’s so rare to see Independence Day celebrated in such meaningful way. The walk through Old Delhi, with its rich history and traditions, must have felt like stepping back in time. I’m definitely going to keep an eye out for this next year—thank you for sharing this beautiful journey.