The renowned artist Maqbul Fida Hussain is well known for his giant canvasses reflecting the joi-de-vivre at life. Perhaps canvasses had become limiting for his unfathomable creativity. Hence, in Ahmedabad, he grew out his canvasses and painted complete caves submerged under the earth. That is how Amdavad ni Gufa got added to the already artful scenario of Ahmedabad, the first World Heritage City of India.

We were in Ahmedabad last week after visiting Kutch. Having covered the popular destinations during earlier visits, we wanted to explore some offbeat things to do in Ahmedabad. Amdavad ni Gufa was high on our list, and the pictures we had seen online looked truly enticing. This unique underground gallery, a painted cave, turned out to be a stunning blend of art and architecture and a whole lot of awe.

First Impressions

Designed by the skilled architect Balkrishna Vithaldas Doshi in the years 1992 to 1995, and brought to life by the artistic genius of M.F. Hussain, this space is a visual as well as intellectual treat. Amdavad ni Gufa is an inimitable art gallery shaped like caves or “gufa” in Hindi. We visited this space just before catching our flight, and it left us spellbound.

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As soon as we entered at about 4 pm when it was stilly sunny outside, it took us just a moment to get adjusted to the dim lights of the cave. But our eyes immediately turned to the oversized figures painted on the ceilings and walls in bright, bold colours. The paintings reminded us of the Ajanta caves, albeit with a difference. While the Ajanta paintings are classical in style, Hussain’s work here portrays primitive man, animals, and snakes. In fact, the snake on the ceiling of the chief dome would almost smile down on you. We thought he was depicting the early lifestyle of humankind.

The vibrant and abstract style gives the place a contemporary and dynamic vibe. Although Hussain had run riot with bright red, green, yellow, and blue, there was still an unmatched balance. The colours did not hurt the eye nor interfere with the austerity that one associates with a cave. Such was the strong sense of beauty of the maestro.

Every Detail Speaks of Art

What impressed us the most was how every element in Amdavad ni Gufa is in sync with the artistic vision. The grills and air-conditioning ducts, for instance, reflect Hussain’s unique designs. It’s not just a gallery but a cohesive art installation where every detail contributes to the overall aesthetic. The experience of walking through these crafty caves was jaw-dropping.

The visual impact went beyond our expectations, leaving us in awe of the creativity and thoughtfulness behind the project.

The Exterior: An Organic Marvel

The outside of the caves is equally fascinating. The structures protrude out of the ground like overturned urns, resembling the shells of turtles. These domes are covered with intricate facade made from broken pieces of tiles, giving the surface a mosaic-like finish. A massive painted snake sprawled across the area adds an eerie dynamism to the space.

Since we had seen another snake inside the caves, we felt that the inside snake had escaped outside and was basking on the dome. It felt as if the entire place was alive and pulsating with energy.

A Relaxing End to Our Visit

After exploring the Gufa, we visited the adjacent art gallery and watched the ongoing displays. They also have an art shop here selling prints and books on art.

They also have an open-air café located within the premises. The space had a laid-back vibe, and we decided to sit down for some ginger lemon tea. Although the tea was a tad pricey, the overall experience was well worth it. Sitting amidst the art and soaking in the creative atmosphere made for a memorable moment.

P.S. – The café is called “Zen Café” and we could not think of a more suitable name.

Tickets and Timings of Amdavad ni Gufa

We had just one day in Ahmedabad. While for some, it would be a day to chill after the active trip to Rann Utsav, we planned the day differently. We wanted to cover some hidden gems of Ahmedabad and our itinerary was overflowing.

On enquiring, we learnt that the timings for Amdavad ni Gufa are 4 pm to 8 pm. They are closed on Mondays. This timing worked well for us. We covered the other spots that were opening early and kept the best – Amdavad ni Gufa for the last.

Also, you might wonder how much are the tickets to Amdavad ni Gufa. Well, to our surprise there is no charge for visiting this place. Who says good things in life do not come free?

How to Reach Amdavad ni Gufa

Amdavad ni Gufa is located on the Lalbhai Dalpatbhai Campus near CEPT University, opposite Gujarat University on University Road. Reaching the gallery is quite convenient:

• By Bus: Several local buses, such as routes 101, 11D, 12D, and 15U, have stops near the gallery.
• By Metro: The nearest metro station is Commerce Six Roads, from where the gallery is a short auto ride away.
• By Taxi or Auto-rickshaw: Both taxis and auto-rickshaws are readily available throughout Ahmedabad and can drop you right at the entrance.
• Drive: There is an adequate parking arrangement here. So if you have access to a vehicle, driving is an option as well.

Nearby Attractions

While Amdavad ni Gufa is a must-visit for art enthusiasts, there are several other attractions nearby that you can explore:

• Sabarmati Ashram: This historical site on the banks of the Sabarmati River was once the residence of Mahatma Gandhi and is a place of immense historical significance.
• Kankaria Lake: A popular recreational spot offering a zoo, a toy train, and other attractions for visitors of all ages.
• Akshardham Temple, Gandhinagar: Known for its stunning architecture and spiritual ambiance, this temple is a short drive away.
• Sidi Saiyyed Mosque: Famous for its exquisite stone latticework, particularly the iconic ‘Tree of Life’ window.
• Jama Masjid: One of India’s most impressive mosques, showcasing remarkable Mughal-era architecture.

Hidden gem of Ahmedabad – Amdavad ni Gufa

Amdavad ni Gufa is more than just an art gallery; it’s an immersive experience that showcases the seamless fusion of art and architecture. The collaboration between B.V. Doshi and M.F. Hussain has resulted in a space that is both thought-provoking and visually captivating.

During our many visits to Ahmedabad, we have realised that Ahmedabad is a treasure of art and architecture. It is apt to be recognised by UNESCO as a Heritage City. Amdavad ni Gufa adds a contemporary twist to the heritage tag and enriches the creativity scene of this city many notches. Given that they have a café, restrooms, and decent parking, the planners did have a holistic experience in mind.

If you’re in Ahmedabad and looking for something offbeat, this place should definitely be on your itinerary. Even otherwise, Amdavad ni Gufa is a spectacle that has to be seen to be believed. It is difficult to articulate the outlandish charm of this place. If you do not visit Amdavad ni Gufa, you would not know what you are missing.