Thalassery is a place that doesn’t always make it to the top of the Kerala travel list, but trust us, it should! We started our Kerala trip here, and it set the bar so high for the rest of our trip.

Thalassery – The Heritage Town

Thalassery, erstwhile Tellicherry, is a city in Kannur district, Northern Kerala, on the haloed Malabar Coast. In the late 19th Century, Thalassery was called the “Paris of Malabar” when it served as a French military base. Given Thalassery’s history and culture, it has been declared Kerala’s first and only “Heritage Town”.

When we went to Thalassery, our biggest motivation was to try the legendary Thalassery Biryani. We were staying at The Heritage 1866, a vintage homestay, and knew very little else about this hidden gem of Kerala. We knew very little else about this hidden gem of Kerala. Luckily we met Mr Praveesh MV, a very competent local guide bursting with zeal. He educated us about the things to do here and we were stumped learning about the plethora of Thalassery heritage sites.

Therefore, as soon as we reached, after quick freshening up, we were on our way to explore Thalassery. Based on what we did, here is a Thalassery travel guide. We wish we could have spent more time here and if we have left out any attraction in Thalassery, do let us know.

Top things to do in Thalassery

Thalassery or Tellicherry Fort

We started our Thalassery sightseeing with the Tellicherry Fort. Built by the British in the 18th century, this place has a unique vibe. It overlooks the Arabian Sea, and you can literally feel the history in the air. The entry is through two sets of narrow steps, making it accessible to only a few people at a time.

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The fort is not very big, yet the pathways are tricky, and we had to walk in different directions to fully experience this place. In one elevated courtyard, we found a light house that gave the fort visibility from afar in the sea. We also discovered a door to an underground tunnel, which looked intriguing but was closed to tourists. A cannon was placed on the lawn, suggesting the British era. It was a lovely photo spot. Tellicherry Fort was unlike the forts we have seen in Jaipur, Udaipur, or even Dharamshala; yet it was quaint and a pleasant surprise.

Hermann Gundert Museum

We also visited the Hermann Gundert Museum. Hermann Gundert, the German missionary and linguist compiled the first-ever Malayalam dictionary. The museum with a host of cool interactive exhibits, was anything but boring. It was housed in the most gorgeous Malabar style building which itself was a photo op. The museum was surrounded by lush greenery and we could also see a river across the boundary wall.

Behind the museum, we saw the CSI Gundert Memorial Church, the first church established by the Basel Mission in Kerala.

Coir factory in Thalassery

Given the abundance of coconuts in Kerala plantations, coir, a by-product, is a popular material here for many items. We visited a women-run coir cooperative where these incredible women have turned the traditional craft of making ropes from coconut fibers into a livelihood. The process is mostly handwork-intensive, and they use machines only for untangling the completed ropes and tying them into bales. They sell the ropes in bulk by weight. Coir ropes are strong and eco-friendly, and we have seen these widely used since childhood. Seeing their source was truly humbling.

Handloom in Thalassery

Thalassery is located in Kannur – The Land of Looms and Lores. Weaving by handloom has waned over the years while power loom has taken over the cloth sector. But when we visited handloom weavers at Pinarayi Handlooms, we were excited to see that they were still practicing age-old methods of spinning yarn on the Charkha spinning wheel and weaving them on handloom machines run by foot. They also had a store where you could buy clothes, fabrics, towels, and linens. Their products were also available at the local Khadi store.

As souvenir, we bought hand-spun and handloom-woven mundu (Kerala dhoti) and stoles. In fact, we wore the mundu at the KTM 2024 dinner too.

The Three C’s of Thalassery:

Thalassery’s reputation is tied to three ‘C’s – cricket, circus, and cake.

Cricket – Thalassery Municipal Cricket Ground & Kerala’s First Eidgah

The first cricket ball in India was bowled at the Thalassery Municipal Cricket Ground in the early 1800s by Arthur Wellesley. In 1850, he established the Town Cricket Club here for British soldiers, making it the first cricket club in India. The ground often hosts Ranji Trophy matches.

We explored the cricket ground, which is adjacent to Kerala’s first Eidgah. No wonder Thalassery is recognized as a Heritage Town!

Circus in Thalassery

The father of Indian Circus, Keeleri, was born in Thalassery in 1858. He was a Kalarippayattu expert, the traditional martial art of Kerala. Kunhikannan also learned gymnastics and sports from the British officers who visited Thalassery.

The first circus in India was founded by Vishnu Pant Chhatre in Bombay. He contacted Keeleri to train his players in Kalari and acrobatics. Thereafter, Thalassery has been the home to many circus artists who have travelled India and abroad.

While we do not get to watch a lot of circus now, the circus connect in Thalassery made us nostalgic and transported us to fond and excitable memories of our childhood.

Cake – Mambally’s Bakery, Thalassery

The yummiest among the three C’s of Thalassery is cake. That is in ode to the fact that the first Christmas cake in India was baked by the predecessors of Mambally’s Bakery, Thalassery.

Now Mambally’s Bakery is the go-to place for cookies and cakes. This is where India’s first Christmas cake was baked, and we couldn’t leave without trying some baked goods! Their cookies and patties were crispy, while the plum cake was rich with rum and dry fruits. We were so impressed that we packed some for the rest of our trip.

Temples of Thalassery – Sree Ramaswami Temple

There are many temples in Thalassery. We visited Sree Ramaswami Temple to seek blessings. We washed ourselves in the majestic temple tank, changed into veshtis, and visited the shrine. It was early evening, and the huge brass lamps illuminated the place beautifully. The deity, anointed with sandalwood paste, was resplendent in the glow of the fire lamps—no electricity, thank you. The outer walls of the temple were also illuminated by flickering oil lamps, giving the area a surreal feel. No photos were allowed inside, but the energy? Just wow.

Odathil Palli Mosque, Thalassery

We checked out the Odathil Palli Mosque, which is 200 years old and built with some features of a Hindu temple. The gold minarets on the roof give the mosque an understated elegance. Located in the heart of Malappuram, this architectural gem stands as a symbol of the region’s rich cultural tapestry, blending Islamic and Hindu influences seamlessly.

The mosque’s thatched roofs, striking wooden beams, and intricate carvings reflect traditional Kerala craftsmanship. The mosque also features an impressive courtyard, which serves as a gathering place for the community. Odathil Palli is not just a place of worship, but a vibrant testament to the region’s inclusive spirit and shared heritage.

The Driving Beach of Thalassery – Muzhapiilangad Beach

The Muzhapiilangad Beach on the Malabar Coast is special since it is one of the few driveable beaches in the world. A picturesque drive through coconut groves takes you there. The very wide beach is a surprise and we are told, it is great for bird-watching in winter. As you drive along the sandy shore, the sound of the waves and the fresh sea breeze create a peaceful atmosphere. The beach stretches for about four kilometers, allowing plenty of space for everyone. Many people also take part in water sports like kayaking and parasailing, making it a lively spot. Whether you want to relax, enjoy the views, or explore nature, Muzhappilangad Beach offers a unique and memorable experience.

Thalassery Beach

We chilled at Thalassery Beach—cool sea breeze, and sunset vibes. The evening stroll at Thalassery Beach was pure relaxation. Couldn’t have asked for a better way to absorb more of Thalassery.

 

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The beach is known for its beautiful golden sands and clear blue waters, making it a perfect spot to unwind. As we walked along the shore, we saw families playing and kids building sandcastles. Ice cream vendors and juice sellers on the shore were very busy. Nearby, fishermen were preparing their boats for an evening catch, adding to the lively scene. As the sun began to set, the sky turned vibrant shades of orange and pink, creating a magical backdrop. Thalassery Beach is not just a place to relax; it’s a place to enjoy nature and feel the local charm all around.

Sree Muthappan Temple, Thalassery

All these years, we have been mesmerized by Theyyam performances, but only on stage. However, Theyyam is a religious practice where the Theyyam blesses people like an oracle. Theyyam is seasonal, and such rituals take place during Onam and from November to February. We were in luck in Thalassery at Sree Muthappan Temple.

In the evening, we witnessed a blessing ceremony and were blessed by a Theyyam. Dressed in resplendent attire, heavy ornaments, and dark face paint, the Theyyams were seated on a high dais opposite the sanctum sanctorum of Lord Muthappan. Muthappan is regarded as a fusion of the two Hindu gods Shiva and Vishnu. Dogs are the companions of Sree Muthappan, and we found statues of dogs standing guard at the main shrine. Meanwhile, devotees queued up before the Theyyam. When their turn came, they would whisper a specific issue for which they were seeking a solution. The Theyyam would chant a suitable blessing.

Such a unique spiritual high to end the day in Thalassery!

What to Eat at Thalassery

Thalassery Biryani is the first answer Thalassery was a major trade hub and has undergone various influences. The Arabs, Europeans, Chinese, Jews, and the British amalgamated with the local Malabar population, creating a unique cuisine. Thalassery Biryani is the flag bearer of the sophisticated cooking style.

Thalassery Biryani

Thalassery Biryani is probably the town’s biggest star. Cochin is full of Thalassery Biryani outlets and we were introduced to this dish during KTM, 2022.

Unlike biryani in other parts of India which is mostly cooked with Basmati rice, Thalassery Biryani is cooked with shorter-grained Jeera rice and meat, and mildly seasoned with Malabar spices. The taste is sweet and savory given the overload of raisins, cashews, and fennel. The result is an aromatic plate of heaven. We tried Thalassery Biryani at the vintage homestay – The Heritage 1866 where the chef was from a local Malabar Muslim heritage with magic in her fingers. The biryani was fragrant, mild and so light that we overate with no after effect!

Paris Restaurant

Paris Restaurant in Thalassery is apparently more than 70 years old. They serve one of the best Thalassery Biryanis in the city. The original restaurant is tucked inside a narrow lane opposite Odathil Palli Mosque. The interesting exterior exudes vintage charm. Their legacy of over 70 years was evident from the old Mohammad Rafi numbers playing in the background. We felt that their chicken biryani was the most popular dish. If you wish to have Thalassery Biryani at a restaurant, Paris Restaurant is the most obvious recommendation.

Ilaneer Shake

Fun fact—Kerala is famous for milk and fruit shakes. Thalassery is no exception. To shake off the fatigue, we tried the famous Ilaneer shake. This super thick, creamy tender coconut shake was almost like a meal. We also tried the mixed fruit shake, which was a lovely shade of orange. This was also very tasty and enjoyed huge popularity, but we liked the Ilaneer shake more for its unique taste and flavors, and also its novelty for us folks from up north.

Kalumakkaya – Mussels Fried

Kerala-style fried mussels were another strong recommendation in Thalassery. This was essentially a street food item; mussels were seasoned with heavy Malabar spices and cooked with rice flour, which gave them a crunch. They were eaten on their own like a snack. We loved the soft and somewhat buttery taste of the mussels, balanced with tempered onions and spices. If you love seafood, this is a must-try.

And also, Mambally’s Bakery cakes, cookies, and savouries are worth the hype so do not miss that too.

How to reach Thalassery

Thalassery is well-connected by road, rail, and air. Thalassery railway station is a halt for many local and express trains. If you are coming from the southern part of India, a train to Thalassery is a great option.

The nearest airport to Thalaserry is Kannur, which is about a 40-minute drive from here. We took flights from Delhi/Kolkata and changed flights to Chennai. You can also fly via Bangalore; Chennai or Bangalore to Kannur takes approximately one hour.

If you have direct flights to Mangalore, that may be a convenient option. Mangalore to Thalaserry is about 150 km by road which should be less than 3 hours’ drive.

Where to Stay at Thalassery

We thoroughly enjoyed The Heritage 1866 Judge Bungalow, a sprawling Malabar style mansion more than 150 years old. Nestled amidst the bountiful nature of Kerala, The Heritage 1866 was surrounded by lush greenery and a river meandered just outside. The owners had maintained the interiors and only upgraded the washrooms etc. up to modern comforts. We could see that this place was also a popular spot for wedding shoots.

The Heritage 1866 team took amazing care of us and made local arrangements for sightseeing. Strongly recommend! 😊

Other places to visit near Thalassery

You can comfortably spend 2 days as long as you want without boredom in Thalassery. There are many other well-known cities around Thalassery that you can visit.

Kannur

The handloom city of Kerala has a lot to offer. With the longest-driving beach, museums including a handloom museum, temples, and a Folklore Centre focussing on the esoteric Theyyam, there is something for everyone.

Kozhikode

The historical town of Kozhikode or Calicut is known for the early spice trade. It is also a great food hub including the delectable Calicut Halwa and the iconic banana chips of Kerala.

Wayanad

Wayanad was in the news for a natural calamity recently. Yet, when we went, we were stumped by its natural beauty. Jungle retreats and adventure activities, Wayanad cannot but impress.

Is Thalassery worth visiting?

During our last Kerala trip, we had covered Kochi to Munnar, that is, backwaters to the mountains. We were so impressed and could not imagine a more beautiful zone to travel.

Cut to our Kerala 2024 trip that we started at Thalassery. The drive from Kannur airport to Thalassery, as a curtain raiser, stole our hearts. The clear blue sky, verdant greenery punctuated with water bodies overflowing with water lilies, and the beautiful tiled Kerala houses – we had to pinch ourselves to ensure we were not in a dream. Moreover, Thalassery is steeped in culture and history. You will encounter breathtaking natural sights, historical landmarks, and a diverse range of activities reflecting the richness of Malabar life. Add to that the best of meals and cakes.

We can’t wait to come back again.