North Bengal is endowed with the Eastern Himalayan Ranges. Many tourist destinations and holiday activities have evolved here since colonial times. Some of these are popular and some still obscure. This post is about exploring the unknown.

Climb every mountain, Search high and low,
Follow every byway, Every path you know.

– Oscar Hammerstein II

Offbeat Hill Stations of North Bengal

Have you noticed the Himalayan range feels different in different segments? The rocks, the trees, flowers and fruits, the animals and birds, the meandering rivers, and the cold, all have distinctive characteristics. The music, dance, clothes, and food have remarkable flavours. You may be more familiar with the popular and offbeat hill stations of Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand. But every part of the Himalayas offers enchanting experiences and stokes our wanderlust.

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The Queen of the Hills, Darjeeling is the star in North Bengal closely followed by Kalimpong. The popular activities here are Mall Roads, horse riding, shopping, and having momos and that is so much fun. But this post is about exploring the unknown. Below are some offbeat experiences of North Bengal that you might want to discover for on an immersive journey. The list is by no means exhaustive. As and when we travel, we shall keep updating this post.

Mahakal Temple Darjeeling

The star activity of Darjeeling is viewing the Kanchenjunga peak of the Himalayas. If you are lucky, that is, it is not a cloudy day, you can view the Himalayan ranges in their full glory.

But the glory of Darjeeling does not end there. This part of Bengal is symptomatic of the syncretic culture we have traditionally enjoyed in India. Darjeeling is a confluence of people from Bengal, Nepal and Bhutan.

A beautiful example of their joint practices is the Mahakal Temple off the Mall Road. The temple perched atop a hillock is a common shrine for Shiva as well as Buddha. You have to climb a longish flight of stairs to reach the entryway with a Buddhist-style gate and colourful prayer flags fluttering around. You walk into a temple complex with many shrines dedicated to Kali, Ganesh, and other Gods. The main shrine displays gorgeous woodwork in gold, red, green, and other bright colours. The Tibetan dragon is a common motif.

This shrine houses the Shiva idol as well as gold-plated Lingas representing the Hindu trinity – Brahma, Vishnu, and Maheshwar. On the other side are small idols of the Buddha. Both Hindu and Buddhist priests conduct the proceedings. Mahakal Temple is known to endow devotees with a long healthy life. Devotees pray to both the Gods and money offerings are put in a common box. The common purse string indicates that we are children of the same God. Peace!

Toy Train of Darjeeling

The toy train of Darjeeling goes back to the 1880s. The British were plain obsessed with Darjeeling. It was the nearest hill station from Calcutta where they could seek respite from the heat of the plains and enjoy weather like home.

But reaching Darjeeling was time intensive. There were trains till Siliguri. Siliguri to Darjeeling was still on a horse-drawn tonga. Therefore, through some ingenious engineering, far ahead of its times, tracks were laid for a tram-like steam engine pulled series of buggies to ply between Siliguri and Darjeeling.

This was the first among the Mountain Railways of India. It is a UNESCO Heritage today. The train buggies look like a fairy tale prop. These have transparent ceilings with the sunlight trickling in during the daytime. Over time this cute railway has become popular as the toy train.

It would take about 7 hours along the mountains to chug you from Siliguri to Darjeeling on the toy train. The view of the Himalayas in North Bengal is white with a hint of pink and you can never get enough of it.

If you want to experience the toy train, another option is to do the loop between Darjeeling and Batasia. This is a circular journey where the toy train starts at Darjeeling and returns you here in about 2 hours. The train stops at Ghoom Peak where you can see the Railway Museum and also at the picturesque Batasia Loop which has a manicured garden and a war memorial to commemorate the brave Gurkha soldiers. The War Memorial at Batasia Loop makes a great photo point that is beaten only by the awe-inspiring views of Kanchenjunga and other Himalayan peaks.

Mirik

Most of the popular hill stations of North Bengal, namely Darjeeling, Kalimpong, and Kurseong date back to colonial times. Mirik village, an easy one and a half hours from Siliguri was developed as a tourist destination much later and gained some popularity in the 1980s.

Why is Mirik famous? From experience, we can say that this idyllic spot is way more tranquil than the popular hill stations. You see unobstructed views of the sun-kissed Himalayan ranges from Mirik. The cold here is also bearable.

Darjeeling zone is famous for its tea gardens. In fact, the first GI tag of India was awarded to Darjeeling Tea. Mirik is surrounded by many tea gardens that allow visitors. Some of these gardens have their own tea factories where you can see the manufacturing process. The sip of elixir – a cup of Darjeeling tea is a bonus.

The Mirik Lake is also an attraction. The Sumendu Lake, now known as Mirik Lake, has been developed by the Government of West Bengal as a spot for boating, horse riding or simply sitting on the benches around it and enjoying the serenity. A walk on the bridge across the lake is an interesting photo-op.

Mirik is way more easily accessible than the popular hill stations of this region. However, it is still hidden from popular tourist itineraries making it a perfect spot for honeymoon or solo travel.

Sittong

If you are scouting for new spots for a quiet holiday, Sittong could be your kind of place. This is a cluster of villages that take anywhere between an hour to 3 hours from Siliguri. There is no Mall Road here, neither fancy eateries nor luxurious hotels. You can stay at the many homestays that offer simple cosy accommodation.

What to do in Sittong? Well, there is no must-do activity here. You are surrounded by the Himalayas with birds chirping around you. Sittong is home to many colourful birds and is a paradise for the ornithologists. One of the most beautiful rivers of India, the dancing Teesta flows through Sittong, Sitting on the rocks, you would be transferred to the Raj Kapoor movie era.

Sittong also has many waterfalls and some easy trek paths for exercise enthusiasts. The Mahananda animal sanctuary is within 20 km from Sittong and is a perfect day trip. Or, you can spend your time here doing nothing but absorbing the mountains and the beautiful trees and wildflowers and orchids one sees even on roadsides.

Sittong is great to travel any time of the year. However, we would suggest the winter months from November onwards. Sittong is known for its oranges and there are many orange orchards in this area. The oranges ripen in the winter and that is a golden sight to behold.

Glenary’s, Darjeeling

Food of the Hills has a lot of varieties. While there are local delicacies, the colonial culture has left an indelible mark on the culinary practices here. If you are somewhat active on social media, you could not have missed the quintessential Darjeeling photograph in front of Glenary’s. There is a jostle on this part of Darjeeling Mall Road just for a pic.

However, what lies inside can not only satisfy your appetite but also your cameras. It is a beautiful bakery done up with old-style posters and artifacts. An array of fresh breads, cakes, croissants, and pies fill their shelves and glass boxes. You pick up a basket, fill that with your desired item/s, and head to the counter for billing. They also serve tea, coffee, and the tastiest sandwiches and we are rooting for the chicken and pork fillings. The sweet salt fillings in these sandwiches are like memories.

On the top floor of Glenary’s is a fully functional restaurant with liveried servers, heavy chandeliers, and huge mirrors transporting you to another era. We would strongly recommend their Shepherd’s Pie, the best we have had in India. They also have live music every evening and the singer skilfully renders melodious English numbers. That takes the dining experience a notch higher.

What elevated our evening even further was the nice gesture by the management. The floor manager, a sprightly young girl came and asked for our views about the food. We loved the Shepherd’s Pie but had some mild feedback about another dish. On our way out, post-billing, we were handed a little thank-you box. We went back to our hotel and saw they had packed 2 slices of complimentary cheesecake.

Good to see that Glenary’s did not just maintain vintage charm in their décor, they still followed old-school courtesies. A talking point indeed.

Kalimpong Cheese

Kalimpong is a beautiful hill station complete with breathtaking views, tranquillity, and colonial architecture. What sets apart Kalimpong from other hill stations is this gastronomic delight – the Kalimpong Cheese.

Kalimpong Cheese was brought to this city by a priest Brother Abraham who missed the Dutch Gouda cheese and wanted to make a similar cheese variety here. Kalimpong cheese is light yellow with a darker yellow rind. It is hard and crumbly with a sharp acidic flavour and distinctive nutty taste reminiscent of Gouda cheese. Kalimpong cheese tastes great on its own, on salads, sandwiches, and crackers. This cheese is available in wheel-like blocks and it is easy to carry back. Kalimpong cheese tastes best when ripened for 3 to 4 months.

Sadly, due to the lack of skill and demand, the production of Kalimpong cheese had dwindled over time. Therefore whatever cheese that is produced is sold only in Kalimpong and not even transported to the state capital Kolkata. So if you are in this region, Kalimpong Cheese is not to be missed.

How to reach Darjeeling from Delhi

If you are taking an airplane, the nearest big airport near Darjeeling is Bagdogra. The nearest railway station is New Jalpaiguri, better known as NJP. You can fly in or take the train from most places of India and reach these spots.

You would find many modes of transport, namely private taxis, shared taxis, and buses to take you to Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Mirik, and Sittong in 1 to 3 hours. If you have more time, you can take the toy train up to Darjeeling.

West Bengal enjoys the bounty of the Eastern Himalayan range. There are big tourist spots and enigmatic hamlets. Based on your travel goals, you can choose your spots. And if you want to have a wholesome experience, you may cover all the above locations in a single trip. Lone advice – take it easy and take time out to enjoy the unparalleled peace that the Himalayas offer.