Venue: Khajuraho and Panna, Madhya Pradesh

Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh is a saga. The Khajuraho temples feature among the most famous Indian monuments and UNESCO Heritage Sites and they deserve all possible adulation. Yet, in addition to the gorgeous architecture, there are other lesser-known things to do in Khajuraho that would attract the nature lover or the wildlife enthusiast. In fact, if you have felt Gwalior is the city for shopping in Madhya Pradesh, think of Khajuraho as well. We found some amazing art and bargains here. Khajuraho beyond temples is a distinctive experience as well and merits a special post.

Khajuraho Beyond Khajuraho Temples

Here is a confession. When we reached Khajuraho we were sceptical. What would we do for 5 long days? Of course Khajuraho temples, but then what?  We should have gone online to check how many days were required for Khajuraho.

Yet, the next 5 days were full of surprises. Khajuraho temples are undoubtedly the most important site here. But like rest of Madhya Pradesh, nature was kind to Khajuraho as well and there was so much more to do. This post is about offbeat Khajuraho, our activities beyond temples.

Raneh Falls

Raneh Falls in Chhattapur district, Madhya Pradesh, it is about 20 km from Khajuraho. This natural waterfall has been formed on the Ken River or Karnawati River. We saw huge volumes of water cascade at least 30 meters atop a canyon of crystalline granite rocks. The granite was a hue of pastel shades such as pink and gray. The waterfall had adopted the colour of the rocks and appeared pink as well. Raneh Falls Madhya Pradesh bears the epithet – the Grand Canyon of India. This is not to be missed.

Ken Gharial Sanctuary

About 25 km from Raneh Falls is the Ken Gharial Sanctuary. It is part of the Panna Forest Reserve and is a habitat for alligators like gharial, deer, nilgai, and a host of birds. The flora here is very colourful and peace reigns in this area. One can drive in their cars with trained guides inside the sanctuary. Gharials basking in the sun on the bank of the Ken River are a common sight. The Ken Gharial Sanctuary is open to visitors during summer and winter but closed during monsoon.

Jungle safari at Panna Tiger Reserve

Panna Tiger Reserve is approximately 25 km from Khajuraho. It is the fifth-largest tiger reserve in Madhya Pradesh and the twenty-second tiger reserve in India. The beautiful forest is made of tendu, teak, and Mahua. Our accommodation here at the periphery of Panna Reserve was called Tendu Leaf Resort. Panna is home to wildlife such as cheetah, boar, and langur as well as birds such as eagles, hawks, vultures, etc. The Panna Tiger Reserve is open for safari tours during summer and winter but closed during monsoon.

Archaeological Museum in Khajuraho

The old Khajuraho museum was a treasure trove of artifacts collected from the temple zone and nearby archaeological sites. The collection is now being transferred to the sprawling new museum. The new museum is to have 6 galleries although only one gallery is ready. That said, the new gallery is well lit and the artifacts are duly labeled and spaced out. The place shows promise. We are told they have plans to hold art workshops such as clay modeling here. The tickets for the Western Group of Khajuraho Temples are valid for the museum as well.

Shopping options in Khajuraho

Madhya Pradesh has experienced a variety of cultures. From royal patronage to tribal ways of life, Madhya Pradesh has seen it all. Consequently, this state boasts of a rich repertoire of handloom and handicrafts that ranges from classical weaves to tribal handicrafts. Although we could not find any organised artisans’ market here in Khajuraho, there are many shopping options scattered throughout the town. These may lack bling but compensate in the surprises they hold.

Antique shops near Western Group of Temples

Many shops are surrounding the Western Temples. The shopkeepers keep calling out and that could seem daunting. But if you are in the mood for seeing some traditional woodwork, metalwork, or silver ornaments, you could enter. We were in no mood to shop yet we could not avoid the polite call from a shopkeeper. Once we entered, we were blown over by the amazing collection of old stuff he had. Even after our resistance, he went on pulling out one item after the other and displayed these to us saying he had a slow day and was happy to show things. Meanwhile, a small elephant brass lamp, peeking from a shelf corner, was breathtakingly beautiful and so suitable for Diwali. The shopkeeper chatted away and convinced us to take the plunge and make a purchase. And we are definitely not unhappy about it. We also saw an old and quaint pull-along Harappa-style toy- bull –wood-cart and bought that as a gift for a friend. The friend was overjoyed in receiving it.

Mrignayani

Mrignayani is the Madhya Pradesh Government crafts store and they have an outlet in Khajuraho as well.  It did not have a very wide collection. But the limited stock of Chanderi and Maheshwari weaves, both specialties of MP, was aesthetic. They also had some pieces of terracotta and stonework. We bought some presents from here.

Shramdaan

There was an attractive eco-friendly bamboo façade structure just outside the Parshvanath Temple, Khajuraho. At first glance, it looked like an art gallery. We saw the board Shramdaan in Devnagari script hanging from the top and entered. It turned out to be a shop selling hand-woven and handmade clothes and accessories. The focus was on Khadi and they also had the spinning wheel or charkha displayed in the store with an area for demonstrations. It was one of the most beautiful contemporary spaces we saw in Khajuraho.

Bargain

Yes..that was what we realised. Except for Mrignayani, the government outlet, we found that there was ample scope for negotiating on the price. We are not very good at it, but if that is your skill, try it out.

What To Eat At Khajuraho

The Khajuraho cuisine is regular North Indian fare – the sort of food we eat in Delhi. But the street food here deserves special mention. There are kiosks and food carts at every corner that sold yummy fritters, samosa, golgappe, tea, and fruit juices. These were fresh, easy on the stomach, and even easier on the wallet. If you are a foodie or just like spicy stuff – street food is a must-do in Khajuraho.

Photography at Khajuraho

Given the temples, the jungles, the waterfall; history, nature, and wildlife; Khajuraho has it all. Needless to say, this place is a shutterbug’s delight be it jungle photography or mausoleums, or even fashion photo shoots. The folks here are most friendly and we did not face any impediments during clicking or shooting. Photography and videography were seamless in the temples and there is some moderate ticket for carrying in a camera.

Pro Tip: However, you cannot bring in stands, tripods, or use artificial lights unless you have obtained special permission from the Archaeological Survey of India authorities.

Best Time To Visit Khajuraho

A tour to Khajuraho is mostly activity-oriented. Be it temples or jungle safaris or waterfalls, it is mostly outdoors. Therefore, hot summer could be a deterrent.  The period between September and March stretched to early April, is the ideal time to visit Khajuraho. You can make most of the day in this period without getting exhausted.

So much to do in Khajuraho and we somehow attempted to give a glimpse in four posts here. 5 days fell short and there was so much more we wished to cover. Orchha, another beautiful archaeological site is not far and we hear there are some beautiful art villages in the area. But the city beckoned and we were already satiated. We left the rest for our next trip.

Given the grandeur of the temples and the beauty of the other attractions here, one tour is not enough. It does not do justice to the aura of this place. Khajuraho, we feel it in our bones, would be calling us again!