Have you seen the popping eyes of Lord Jagannath in Puri, Odisha? The large eyes of Hindu God statues are perhaps for maintaining a better vigil on their devotees. But as an art lover, the image of Lord Jagannath is an eye-popping beauty. There are so many other eye-popping beauties in Odisha. Today, we take you to Raghurajpur, the real art village in Odisha.

Why is Raghurajpur Famous? The Pattachitra

Which is the most famous painting of Odisha? It is the Pattachitra that is painted in Raghurajpur in the Puri district of Odisha. The term Pattachitra is a combination of two words – “Patta” which means cloth and “chitra” which means “painting”. Pattachitra is therefore a form of scroll painting that dates back to ancient times.

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What is the History of Raghurajpur

In the course of culture travel through India, we have realised that most of the traditional arts and crafts have been developed for reasons of worship. Pattachitra is no exception.

Most cultural practices in Odisha revolve around Lord Jagannath and temple practices. The Pattachitra also has votive origin depicting stories of Lord Jagannath and his siblings Goddess Subhadra and Lord Balaram who are worshipped with him on the same dais. The chief shrine of Lord Jagannath is in Puri. There are myriad ritualistic practices in Puri Temple that have been continuing uninterrupted and barely changed since more than 1000 years.

The statues of Puri Temple are made of wood. During certain times of the year, the statues of Jagannath, Subhadra, and Balaram are kept away from public eye for ritualistic reasons and also for restoration of wear and tear. During such times, Jagannath paintings or Pattachitra are hung at the altar so that the shrine is not empty and the devotees can still have a view of the Lord.

These Pattachitras are painted by artists in Raghurajpur Village about 12 km from Puri. A host of rules and themes are strictly followed for these ritualistic paintings. Natural colours derived from stones, plants, and charcoal are used to create the Pattas. The artists have very little freedom to deviate from these rules. However, the skill that is passed from one generation to the next, is mind-blowing. The eye for details of Pattachitra and the extreme symmetry make it one of the most beautiful classical paintings of India.

The art of Pattachitra dates back to over 1000 years at least. It fell into disuse yet, we are told, it was revived by an American tourist Ms. Helena Jelly. She fell in love with this art and carried it to the west. Orders from abroad and visibility in cites helped revive the industry.

Raghurajpur – The Original Artist’s Village

We recently read a social media post about Raghurajpur that claimed that the artists here painted their houses during the COVID lockdown period in 2020. That is a false claim. We recall seeing painted houses in Raghurajpur in the year 2001, more than two decades ago. In any case. the process of wall art is not a recent trend. It has been a part of the Indian aesthetic since ages.

Wall art in Pattachitra is called “Bhitti Chitra”. Almost every house around the village cloister in Raghurajpur has beautiful paintings on the outer walls. Before the days of social media, Raghurajpur-painted houses were a hidden secret of Odisha.

When we stepped into this village, we were taken by surprise. It was a riot of colours around us. The paintings were delicate and exhibited trained finesse. The themes were mostly mythological although we saw few drawings covering social issues like adult education, seasons in the year, and so on. Some houses had names of bride and groom painted in fancy letters on the outside wall. We found this practice rather cute.

There was a big temple that was at the centre of the houses. It had the trademark lion-guard statues at the gate. This is typical or Odisha temples. The floor was decorated with traditional paintings or Jhoti Chita that were pleasing to the eyes.

Incidentally, Raghurajpur is the native of Odissi maestro Guru Kelucharan Mahapatra who was instrumental in reviving the Odissi dance.

What to Do at Raghurajpur

Our first impression here was awe. The beautiful art surrounding us took us back to Bir Billing. The only difference was that the Pattachitra on the walls here looked way more organic. You can spend hours walking from one door to another admiring the paintings. Very soon you may be able to discern the differences and thematic inclinations of the artist.

You can take photos to glory and nobody minds. Selfies are a must so that when you are back from here, you don’t have to pinch yourself to believe you were here. The folks here are friendly and happily spare details about the art, the paint, the process, and so on. You should not limit yourself to the wall art but also look at their scroll paintings. These are such a treat to the eyes.

The artists might ask you to make a purchase. But they don’t seem to mind otherwise too. On an earlier occasion we were served milky tea by an artist. But now people are a little hesitant about offering food, perhaps a fallout of the pandemic.
There is also a state-run gallery here where paintings are sold. You can have a look at that as well if you want to buy.

Raghurajpur Art Village Shopping

Pattachitra was earlier painted in three styles. Scroll paintings on cloth were Pattachitra; paintings engraved on palm leaves were called Tal Pattachitra and paintings on walls or ceiling were called Bhittichitra. Artists from Raghurajpur would be appointed in earlier times and even now to paint the walls of temples and palaces of Odisha.

The scroll paintings and paintings on palm leaves are collector’s items. When you see how painstaking is the process of created lines of holes on dried palm leaves and inserting colour in each hole to paint the lines, your respect for this art would multiply manifold. You might want to carry a piece not only as home décor but also to be part of the rich legacy of Indian heritage.

The artists of Raghurajpur have also diversified their art. Consequently, we saw kettles, bottles, lamps, papier mache balls, and hanging birds resplendent in Pattachitra colours. You can buy these pieces for yourself or as souvenirs.

How to Reach Raghurajpur

You can take a flight to Bhubaneswar, the capital of Odisha. Raghurajpur is about 1 hour and 15 minutes from here on an excellent highway. You can hire a taxi or take an intercity bus.

If you are taking the train, you can get off at Puri. Raghurajpur can be reached from Puri station by taxi or auto rickshaw.

Where to Stay in Raghurajpur

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There are some hotels or homestays surrounding Raghurajpur and you can put up here. Most visitors however prefer staying at Puri and then visiting Raghurajpur on a half-day trip.

Other Attractions Near Raghurajpur

There are many attractions near Raghurajpur, the prime being Puri known for its beaches and Jagannath Temple. You can also visit Bhubaneshwar, Nandan Kanan the nature park, Chilika Lake, and Konarak. All these are within one to one and a half hours of Raghurajpur.

If you are an enthusiast of all things beautiful, you must visit Raghurajpur. Not only would you see an age-old process that is still practiced without much change, but you will also get to click some of the best pictures one can imagine. Raghurajpur is indeed a hidden gem of Odisha.