We recently had an opportunity to revisit Madhya Pradesh and this time it was the Panna National Park zone. The National Ceramic Camp was being held here and we were invited to cover that.

If you are wondering how to reach Panna National Park – it is incredibly simple. We took the Uttar Sampark Kranti Express from Nizamuddin Railway Station in Delhi and after a comfortable ten-hour overnight journey; we punctually dropped at Khajuraho early next morning. Panna was 30-odd kilometers from here. We took the train on the way back too – started in the evening from Khajuraho station and was in Delhi early the following morning.

The next important question is where to stay at Panna Reserve Forest?  There are hotels at Khajuraho which cater to this zone. But there are resorts at Panna too. Tendu Leaf Jungle Resort is located on the periphery of Panna Forest on the bank of the Karnawati or Ken River. Tendu Leaf Resort was the venue for the National Ceramic Camp and we too put up here.

When we reached the resort after about 25 minutes early morning drive from Khajuraho station, we were transported to a different world. Our eyes popped out when we saw a deck almost jutting out on the river. With trees and wood huts decorated with totems and water bodies, it was like the forests of the Amazon. Forests seem to be at the core of this property and all the cottages are made of recycled wood, mud, and straw with totemic art embossed on the rooftop.

They have a variety of cottages here. There are the regular log cabins with a beautiful drawing room, a sprawling bedroom, a dressing room, and a rustic bath. The bathroom has an attached outdoor area with a shower and a bench. This outdoor section has no ceiling and a guest can shower below the sky.  It gives a bathing-in-the-stream feeling. The outside bathing arrangement was a first for us.

They also have luxury villas. These are double-storied with a drawing room, multiple bedrooms, and a private terrace with a clear view of the river. We wish there was a kitchen here too and then one could move in for months.

Then again, all the meals are provided here in buffet spreads at the restaurant overlooking the river. Ala carte dishes and beverages can be ordered in the cottages. The food is fancy home-style and is tasty yet kind to the system. The approach is mostly vegetarian with some non-vegetarian dishes on the side. The buffet had a variety of items and there was always something for everybody.  The breakfast and the other meals too had an assortment of Indian, Continental, and Chinese items. Salads and curd were part of almost every meal.  But what won our hearts are the desserts. Be it apple pie, brownie, or gujia – the dessert chef was churning magic in the midst of the forest.

Sustainable tourism is Tendu Leaf Resort’s ethos and the huge property is powered by solar panels. The administration routinely procures plants locally or gets varieties shipped from various parts of India and have already planted more than 2 Lakh saplings in the premise. This afforestation process is their way of paying back to nature.

Given the subtle and conscientious approach towards tourism in the lap of nature, one cannot help but be inspired.  Blue sky, clean air, chirping of birds, and flowing water – creative juices flow easily in such places. No wonder they routinely have art camps and workshops in their spacious studio Kala Kendra. The beautiful Khajuraho temples help to inspire artists too. We loved the mud-plastered walls of Kala Kendra which has a cute amphitheater as an annex.

Kala Kendra hosted the National Ceramic Camp. A host of senior as well as new ceramic artists from various parts of India camped here for a fortnight and created pieces of ceramic sculpture. Their creative process as well as the artistic exchanges that they had was most exciting and would be the subject of another post that we intend to put up shortly.

But art, we thought, was at the heart of Tendu Leaf Jungle Resort. Not only the more visible reception area or the dining hall, but the whole property had sculptures scattered all over the place. Many of the pieces comprised local stones or branches or terracotta combined with some other element. There were a few that could be classified in the scrap-to-art category. The approach was very contemporary and yet fundamentally Indian. The art shop here carried many adorable ceramic items. The guests were also welcome to try their hand at any art workshop that was in process at the Kala Kendra.

In addition, the resort had a host of other interesting activities like hiking, bird watching under the guidance of a naturalist, angling, and so on. There was not a single dull moment during our 4-day stay here. That said, if one wanted solitude or privacy, this was the place. While it is a great spot for a romantic rendezvous, it is also ideal for a solo self-exploration trip. And then of course there were the conventional activities like visiting Khajuraho temples or doing the tiger safari – the resort makes comfortable arrangements for such activities too. We are very thankful that we were provided with very convenient transport and a knowledgeable tourist guide, Ghanshyamji when we visited Khajuraho Temples. That made all the difference!

Great landscape, cosy cottages, warm hospitality, wholesome meals, and a cool location in the midst of nature, it was an ideal break from city lives for us. The rains transformed the place totally and it seemed we were in the coolest place on earth. Incidentally, we saw some more cabins being built here. These are a more affordable range and should be functional in the coming months. A swimming pool is also being laid. There is no end to getting better they say and Tendu Leaf Jungle Resort is an example.  And yes – we hope to come back to the Tendu Leaf Jungle Resort and experience these additions as well.