Venue: Hazra, Kolkata
Date: Oct 20 2018
One reason why we keep travelling to Kolkata is its old world charm. Kolkata or Calcutta was the British India capital till 1911. The long colonial era has left an indelible influence what with iconic structures like Victoria Memorial, Indian Museum, GPO and Writer’s Building. The Britishers have also left a strong impact in the food scenario of this city. Kolkata is home to some of the first iconic cafes of the country. One such little known café is called just that – “Cafe”. Located at the busy Hazra Crossing in South Kolkata, it is just outside the Jatin Das Road metro station.
It is an unassuming place just on the busy road. The moment we stepped inside, we were transported to another era. The Cafe has been around apparently since 1939 and they have not changed the architecture over time. There is no effort to beautify the space or create a theme. Yet, we marveled at the French windows and ornate cast iron grills on arched doors still intact here. The plain wood desks and chairs seemed straight out of some black and white cinema by Satyajit Ray.
The Cafe opens at 4 pm perhaps because it was a British habit to go out for tea. There is no printed menu and the 15 / 20 odd dishes of the day are handwritten on a black slate board hanging on the wall. The prices are extremely modest.
We chose fish kobiraji (fish fry in egg batter) and chicken cutlet with tea. The fish kobiraji with all the egg net was juicy inside yet totally crispy outside. The chicken cutlet had a succulent filling of minced chicken inside a not so thick coating. There was very little seasoning from the top and that helped in appreciating the taste and flavours of the dish. The tea was served in a white China clay cup on a saucer of the same variety. It reminded us of the crockery used at grandmother’s home eons ago.
The star dish here has to be the pudding. It is quite not like something we have had before. It was soft yet not runny and stood up like a cake. The heady flavours by combining eggs, butter and vanilla essence can make any modern pastry chef relearn his act. It was mildly sweet and had a stiff foam topping and we are clueless as to how that feat could be achieved. This remotely is similar to something Great Eastern Hotel(now Lalit) in then Calcutta used to sell when we were small. This tradition had ended long back we thought. We have visited Flury’s and Nahoums and love their baking tradition a lot. Yet, the pudding here is a piece of heavenly surprise in the mouth and is worth a trip to that city singularly for this reason. Yes, we stand by what we say.
But do make it soon. After all, we wonder how long can places like Cafe survive the demands of the oxide and nitrogen infused onslaught that “gastronomy” suffers in the current era. Cafe is a hidden gem in Kolkatal and we are plain happy we have experienced it to tell you the story.
I love exploring and visiting such places…. feels like walking through history and becoming a part of it… adding to my list
I have travelling to Kolkata and definitely places like this keep the old charm of the city intact. Shall definitely checkout this place next time I visit there.
I believe this is the beauty of Calcutta, it has kept its old-world charm intact. The cafe is an extension of the same. I would definitely check out this cafe, whenever I traveled to that side of the city.
Such a lovely story. I wish to visit this cafe someday. Will definitely try the fish kobiraji and pudding ☺️
Bedabrata is curious to know what you think about Kobiraji
Bedabrata is drooling to come along!
Another place added to my West Bengal bucket list…i so want to go on a food tour of Kolkata and my list keeps getting longer!
Totally. We were pushed to do a Kolkata Food Trail..do check our Youtube videos
The ‘Cafe’, seems to ooze with old-world charm. Looking at the pictures of the place I was reminded of a 100-year-old restaurant in Bangalore that has an uncanny resemblance to this one. The pudding of the ‘Cafe’, sounds really heavenly. Would love to visit the place for a slice of this and the timeless aura.
A slice of the pudding is virtually time travel!
Calcutta has its own charm as a historical city. This cafe captures that charm very well. Would definitely visit.
The place seems to be a must visit for food lovers. Like look at the pudding it looks so yum n your description just made me drool more over it.
Wow! I have never been there… Some of my friends live around Hazra! I will try visiting the cafe next time!
I have been to this place and I was in love with their food especially chicken cutlet, fish kobiraji. Thanks for the article
You are making our mouths water 😛