The festivals of India draw awe from people around the world. Be it Hindu, Christian, Sikh, or Muslim festivals celebrated in India, there is so much to experience around the year. For instance, this is the month of Ramzan, the annual fasting–fasting cycle among Muslims before Eid. For us, this is the season for the Ramzan Food Walk at Old Delhi of course! This is our annual ritual and notwithstanding the sweltering weather, we embarked on this mission starting from Jama Masjid, an iconic landmark in the history of Delhi.

Jama Masjid, New Delhi

Jama Masjid is one of the largest mosques in India and is sometimes called the National Mosque of India.

Commissioned by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, the mosque was completed in the year 1656. Thereafter it was the place of worship for later Mughal Emperors. The mosque was built in a combination of white marble and red sandstone and has two very high minarets that are iconic to the Delhi skyline. The mosque has various ornamental details in line with Taj Mahal in Agra and the Red Fort; all three monuments that were built by Shah Jahan. Wide staircases and arched gates are characteristic features of the Jama Masjid. In fact, the mosque was placed on a high platform so that it was visible from afar.

It is said that the courtyard of this mosque can accommodate 25000 worshippers concurrently. The Jama Masjid draws a plethora of devotees and visitors every year. When we visited the Masjid, it was just after Iftar when Muslims break their Ramzan fast. The huge courtyard was thronging with people sitting in groups and having their first proper meal of the day. It was almost like a picnic and the mosque exuded a strong festive mood. The shimmering pool of water in the courtyard that was used for pre-prayer ablutions doubled up as the most popular selfie point here.

Rediscovering Ramzan delights in Old Delhi’s Jama Masjid after 2 years. Join us on a culinary journey through the bustling lanes.

The crowd outside was no reflection of the peace and quiet of the main hall. The red stone structure was embellished with quiet designs. This was perhaps not to cause distractions during the prayers. Some devouts were offering their evening Namaz oblivious to the festivities in the courtyard. We almost tiptoed so as to not disturb them. Really long and beautiful crystal chandeliers were hanging here. These provided soft light in the area.

We spent about half an hour soaking in the festivities. The notion that such celebrations were being held here unbroken, for at least the last 500 years or so, gave us goosebumps. We walked out of the high boundaries around the masjid sombre in our thoughts. Our shoes were outside, it is customary to visit this shrine barefoot. Also, once should be fully attired at this mosque. Shorts or small dresses are considered disrespectful.

Our next destination was Gali Kababiyan, the most popular spot for Ramzan delicacies.

What to eat during Ramadan Food Walk

If you walk for approximately 5 minutes from the Jama Masjid Metro Station, through the chirpy Eid markets, you reach the Jama Masjid Road opposite Qureshi. The lanes here are decorated with streamers, buntings, and fairy lights during Eid. The moment we came here, we felt very festive.

Qureshi Kabab Corner, Jama Masjid

We started our food trail from Qureshi’s. There was already a crowd here waiting for their orders. It took us about 20 minutes to get our Chicken Seekh Kebabs and Galouti Kebabs rolled in rumali roti. The kebabs were utterly delectable and very fragrant. The mildness of taste made sure that we could taste the meat in the kebab. Needless to mention, we went for a second round and got some packed as well.

Sweets at Cool Point, Jama Masjid

We now walked towards Gali Kababiyan for the rest of the goodies. Our first target was Cool Point, a popular place for desserts. Now there are two Cool Points here and the second Cool Point makes the most amazing mango ice cream on earth. They also make great vanilla ice cream. We had this as a combo with the decadent Shahi Tukda, straight from the oven. It was oodles of calories but zero regret!

Mohabbat ka Sherbat during the Ramzan Food Walk

We are big fans of Pyaar Mohabbat ke Sherbet – a milk Rooh Afza shake with watermelon slices. Forget the name, the drink is like manna from heaven. Mohabbat ki Sharbat is sold on carts and the baby pink drink would draw your attention from far. We had multiple rounds of this drink and strongly recommend this for falling in love – with the beverage of course.

Golden Bakery, Jama Masjid

After that, we stocked up on bakery – coconut paratha (baked bread), sheermal layered with jam and butter, and cakes from our all-time favourite Golden Bakery. It is so sad that they only operate during Ramzan.

Diamond Bakery, Jama Masjid

Further down this lane is an old-style bakery. A variety of doughs go into a blazing wood-fired oven and come out baked as cakes, cookies, and rusks. The cake rusk here is very popular, and once you taste it, you know why.

We stocked up on coconut cookies and rusk from this bakery.

Gur Sharbat

We rounded off the trail with the Gur Sharbat. We are fans of this humble hero for years and finally social media has given Gur Sherbat its due through Insta pics this year. The gur sharbat is chunks of gur or jaggery soaked in water and served with a squeeze of lime juice. Nothing else helps to beat the depletion of this sweaty Ramzan season.

Sewaiyaan, Jama Masjid

Vermicelli pudding or seviyan is a traditional dessert for Eid. We were full so we could not go for another round of dessert. We bought some uncooked vermicelli instead. These are sold in piles at various spots. The variety of vermicelli is mind-boggling. From experience, we bought the thin-stranded variety roasted in ghee. This was for the home where it would be cooked with milk, sugar, and flavorings. We also bought some as gifts for friends.

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How to reach Jama Masjid

How to reach Jama Masjid for the Ramzan food walk is a question that baffles Delhites as well. During the last years, we have tried various modes of transport. In our opinion, Delhi Metro is your best friend for this exercise.

The Jama Masjid Metro Station is on the Heritage Line stretch of Delhi Metro on the Violet Line. Exit Gate no. 2 of Jama Masjid Metro Station is a few minutes away from the broad steps of the regal Jama Masjid.

If you walk maybe 5 minutes through the enchanting markets surrounding Jama Masjid, you reach the Ramazan Food Walk, Delhi zone – Gali Kababian, Old Delhi.

You can also take a cab or drive to Jama Masjid. However, the parking area here is never adequate and without an attendant, can be difficult. Also, many areas are cordoned off for cars during the Ramzan period. Auto rickshaws, cycle rickshaws and In contrast, as we mentioned above, the Jama Masjid Metro Station opens almost at the gate of the mosque.

PRO-TIPS

•  The Jama Masjid area is a congested place. The crowd multiplies during Ramzan evenings. It is still comfortable but be prepared for crowds.
• Given the sweltering weather, carry water.
• During Eid, the place comes to life during the evenings so no point coming early.
• The Ramzan Food Walk involves walking. You cannot use any mode of transport. Comfortable footwear is highly recommended.
• There are some food options for vegetarians in some restaurants. You can also try the unique juices, shakes, and desserts.

So that is that for Ramzan Food Walk, 2022. Once in a while, we come to Jama Masjid area to satisfy our Mughlai food cravings. But to go back where we started, it is never so much fun without the decorations, festivities, and excitement of Eid. After a hiatus of 2 years, we are happy we could refresh this experience all over again. We hope to see you again with an article on Ramadan Food Walk 2023, Inshallah!

P.S. – Our dear friend travel writer and artist Akansha Dureja and her sister Mansa joined us for Jama Masjid. Although a vegetarian, Akansha accompanied us for the Ramzan Food Walk as well. We thoroughly enjoyed their company.