Telia Rumal is an Ikat weave from Chirala Village in coastal Andhra Pradesh. Senior designers David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore regaled us about this weave at an interesting talk organised by the Kiran Nadar Museum of Art (KNMA) at the National Crafts Museum, Pragati Maidan, New Delhi.

Telia Rumal Weavers And Weaves

Telia derives the name from ‘Tel’ or oil. Before weaving, the Telia Rumal weavers would soak the cotton thread in sesame oil to give the fabric a cooling effect. The fishing community or boatsmen who would have to face long hours in the sun were major consumers of Telia Rumal, rumal being the common Indian word for a handkerchief. They would wrap smaller pieces or the rumal around their heads for a cooling effect. The larger ones would be used as loincloths, dupattas, or spreads. Later, the Telia weaves were expanded to saris as well. From personal experience, we can say that Telia is a very durable weave. 50 plus years old Telia Ikat saris are still worn by mothers at home.

Ikat is a very precise almost mathematical weave where each yarn is dyed proportionately in multiple colours based on the final design. The yarns are painstakingly placed on the loom to create the final design. The weaving is then just a process to tie all the threads. Major Ikat centres in India are in Odisha, Andhra Pradesh, and Gujarat. Each region has its distinctively style.  Thakore took the lead while speaking on Telia from the Andhra coasts. To demonstrate the talk, he used select pieces from the museum collection. There were some rare Telia pieces that were beautifully embroidered with simple but charming motifs.

About Crafts Museum, New Delhi

National Handicrafts and Handlooms Museum, commonly known as the Crafts Museum is a rich display of traditional handloom and handicrafts of India. Situated adjacent to Pragati Maidan in Central Delhi, it is a sprawling complex created in classical and folk architecture styles of India.

The premises are segregated into distinct galleries – textiles, ornaments, utensils, paintings, votive elements, carriages, etc. Terracotta Aiynar horses and other folks wall art adorns the courtyard. The museum store is an outlet of Central Cottage Industries Emporium. It is surprisingly well-stocked with good-quality Indian paintings and handicrafts.
The Crafts Museum has been overhauled and looks different now. It is more in line with other museums across the globe.

About KNMA, New Delhi

We have been friends with the Kiran Nadar Museum of Arts for many years now. A decade back, we were so excited to have discovered KNMA, a private art museum in the rather desolate South Court Mall at Saket. It was an almost hidden art gallery those days. Yet it exhibited smart pieces of contemporary art curated from various private collections. The organizers had used moderation in displaying a few select pieces, thus avoiding clutter. As a result, the eyes were not hurt and each work stood out. The ambient lighting also helped to appreciate the creations.

KNMA would also hold stimulating discussions and multi-media events surrounding art. We recall attending the talk “The Coup” which was an interesting presentation on various not-so-romantic aspects of art.

The reception had a counter that sold an interesting collection of art publications and merchandize.

KNMA has since spread its wings and has another beautiful museum in Noida. But the activities of KNMA are not restricted to their premises. They routinely organise a plethora of events connected with the widest-ranging definitions of art in venues or even open spaces all over Delhi NCR. Such programs include retro photograph exhibitions like “Sitaare Zameen Paar”, the street art gala “Lodhi Art Festival” as well as talks on traditional craft practices such as Ikat and Telia.

Cheers to KNMA for its efforts in bringing the gap with between art and the community.

Indian Handloom – The Way Forward

We asked Abraham about his views on the survival of such weaves. He seemed optimistic given that the younger generation was taking a keen interest. Also, from a business perspective, their design company Abraham & Thakore has seen a rise in domestic consumption and not just exports. That’s heartening indeed!

Our respect and nothing less for the design heroes. Also kudos to KNMA for unveiling our heritage for us.