Koraput district in Odisha is a land of surprises. We were visiting the region for a short getaway and were floored by its quiet charm, breathtaking nature, and an unexpected abundance of art and craft. One of the high points of our trip was our visit to Kotpad – a humble village that weaves magic on looms. It was a culture trip to Orissa through its dyes and looms.

Kotpad – A Weaving Tradition Rooted in Nature

Kotpad is not a touristy village. Yet, it is significant in the world of Indian textile craft. It is here that a unique handloom tradition thrives. Practised primarily by the Mirgan community, this is mostly a weavers’ zone, and you hear the unique clack of looms from the road.

Kotpad weaving stands apart from other handloom weaves because of its organic dyeing techniques using natural ingredients – no synthetic colours, no shortcuts. And that is what makes it so special. This eco-friendly handloom tradition is a must-visit for sustainable fashion and slow textile enthusiasts.

As we approached Kotpad, the scenic Damayanti River ran quietly alongside the road. The air was clean, the sky clear, and the homes unassuming. Some of the houses had weddings announced on their outside walls with the name of the couple caligraphed with some designs in the colourful Raghurajpur Patachitra style. We had seen this practise in Puri too – maybe it was an Oriya thing. It did add a flair to the quiet aesthetics of the village. The deeper we went inside, we felt like time had slowed down.

Our first stop was the weaving centre of Shri Gobardhan Panika, a master weaver and Padma Shri awardee. We were thrilled, not only because of the skill on display, but also because of a delightful personal coincidence. Back in 2012, we had bought a Kotpad shawl for Rs 800 from Dilli Haat in New Delhi. It had remained one of our most treasured possessions, and it rightly so, since Gobardhan Ji mentioned these were now priced around Rs 8500. To realise that it could have come from this very centre – and from the ace weaver Panika Ji himself – was goosebumps. It felt like life had come full circle.

History & Traditional Use of Kotpad Weave

Kotpad weaving is no recent discovery. Though exact dates are obscure, the craft has been practised for generations by the Mirgan community in this region of Koraput. Some accounts place the tradition as old as a thousand years. This is a weaving heritage that has quietly grown out of a way of life rather than any formal institution.

Back in the day, Kotpad fabrics were not made for markets or exhibitions. They were woven at home by the family, for the family. Saris, dhotis, towels, and ceremonial garments were created with simple, sturdy looms and a remarkable understanding of natural dyeing. It was common for local women to wear smaller knee-length saris called pata as daily attire, and the more elaborate pieces with distinctive kumbha or temple motifs were meant for special events – marriages, festivals, and rites of passage. Men, on the other hand, wore tuvals (loincloths) and carried gamchhas as head wraps or towels.

The dyeing process itself was a community affair and largely handled by women. The yarns were softened and treated with castor oil, cow dung, and wood ash. Only then were they dyed using the aal root extract, and the entire process took several days under the sun. There was no rush.

The Process of Kotpad Weaving

“Handlooms are not just fabrics, they are the woven stories of our culture, crafted with patience, skill, and soul.” – Ritu Kumar

Kotpad weaving is traditionally done on a pit loom, a direct weaving method. Now, framelooms without jacquards are also used for weaving. We saw the weavers, both men and women, handling the yarns with precision and ease. No machines were humming, no dye vats with pungent chemicals. Instead, the dye was being made in open pots over a wood fire.

The natural dye comes primarily from the aal tree (Indian Madder). The root of the aal tree is cleaned, boiled, and the extract is left to settle under the sun. The longer it stays in the sun, the darker the dye becomes. The result is a stunning palette of deep reds, browns, and light brown hues similar to kattha or catechu.

The fabrics usually have a natural off-white or beige base, with designs woven using these earthy shades. Something is grounding about the colours – they seem to belong to the soil, to the rivers, to the forests around. This kind of natural dyeing in India is rare and represents one of the oldest organic textile traditions in the country.

The fabrics are not as smooth as mill-manufactured fabrics. But that gives it the durability needed for physically active village life. Also, the items last for many years, being passed down from one generation to the next.

Also read: The Legacy of Timeless Gamchha

From saris and stoles to small scarves that double up as gamchhas and even wall hangings, Kotpad weaving has evolved into a variety of forms. The latest trend we noticed was woven fabric meant for tailoring – an encouraging sign that the art is adapting to current needs. For those searching for ethical fashion or sustainable Indian textiles, Kotpad offers a brilliant option.

We saw how the base fabric was woven and how painstakingly each motif is created, thread by thread. For the sake of a referral, a simple sari takes at least a week to be completed. If the design is complex, it might take more than a month. Given that there is no electricity-driven machines involved, not only is the Kotpad weaving process labour-intensive, but it is also strenuous to the eyes and fingers. So if you are wondering why a cotton Kotpad sari costs Rs 8000 or more, you are not buying a garment, you are getting a piece of art and heritage.

 

We also visited Bhansuli, a nearby village, where, alongside natural dyes, chemical dyes were being used to add brighter colours to the fabric. While the aesthetics were appealing, our hearts remained with the organic hues of Kotpad.

Linear Designs from Life Around

One of the striking features of Kotpad textiles is the motifs. These motifs tell stories without the need for narration. The designs came from their world – fish, tortoises, temple spires, water pots, and human figures, including women with pots on their heads. Each motif had meaning. There was no ornamentation for ornamentation’s sake. Even today, these are simple, linear designs, and yet they carry a certain sophistication – a quiet, contemporary restraint that feels timeless.

The aesthetic is rooted, restrained, and incredibly modern in its minimalism. We realised that this craft was more than just a handloom. It was – and still is – a quiet but powerful expression of tribal identity. Woven not for trend, but for tradition.

A Craft Waiting to be Discovered

Kotpad weaving is still something of a hidden gem. It has not entered the mass market in the way Kanjeevarams or Banarasis have. And perhaps that’s for the better. The craft, in its current form, caters to a niche of handloom lovers and textile collectors. But the challenge remains – middlemen often eat into the weavers’ rightful profits, and marketing is still weak. Moreover, we saw digital prints copying the look of the Kotpad weaves. This indeed is a damaging trend for the craft.

Our tour was arranged by Banglanatak dot com, a social enterprise working to promote cultural heritage. They are trying to create a direct bridge between the artisans and the market – a commendable initiative that we hope will grow stronger. They are also organising crafts exchange programs and arranging designer interventions that would bring a somewhat urban aesthetic, thereby expanding the market for the weave. Their efforts to promote, develop, and sustain the traditional skills of this region are crucial and deeply valuable. All said and done, Kotpad deserves more visibility, and the weavers deserve a fairer deal.

How to Reach Kotpad, Koraput

By Air: The nearest airport is Jeypore Airport (about 50 km from Kotpad), which is now functional for small commercial flights. Alternatively, Visakhapatnam Airport is about 220 km away and is well-connected to major Indian cities.

By Train: Koraput Railway Station is the nearest major railhead (around 50 km from Kotpad). Koraput is well connected to cities like Bhubaneswar, Rayagada, and Visakhapatnam.

By Road: Kotpad is about 50 km from Koraput town. Taxis and private vehicles can be hired from Koraput or Jeypore. The roads are motorable and the drive is beautiful, especially during winter and post-monsoon.

Best Time to Visit

The uniqueness of the Koraput weather is the frequent rain. A hot day is almost invariably followed by a rainy night. So weather-wise, you can visit any time. However, the weavers are not too fond of rain. The Kotpad process still follows age-old practices where sunlight is important for getting the shades of the dye right, as well as drying the threads.

The best time to visit is from October to February. The weather is pleasant, and it is also the peak season for weaving activity. Mornings are ideal to visit weaving centres, as that’s when most work happens.

Cultural Travel Through Odisha and India

Our visit to Kotpad was humbling. The craftsmanship, the patience, the rootedness of the process – everything made us reflect on what we wear and why. In a world of fast fashion, Kotpad is a slow, soulful alternative.

Travel in India is slowly but surely shifting from sightseeing to soul-searching. More and more, travellers are seeking meaningful cultural experiences instead of just ticking off landmarks. Cultural travel in Odisha and other parts of India is now about engaging with living traditions – connecting with people, their crafts, and the stories woven into their everyday life.

Our journey to Kotpad was exactly that. It was not just a visit to a village. It was a glimpse into a centuries-old tribal handloom tradition. The connection we felt with the weavers, the organic colours, and the way every motif had a meaning – this was immersive, intimate, and unforgettable. For those exploring experiential tourism in India, such moments offer deeper insight than any monument can.

If you are someone who loves stories woven into fabric, consider making a trip to Kotpad. And if you’re lucky like us, you might even land at the doorstep of the very artisan whose work you once admired in a faraway city. For textile tourism in Odisha or offbeat cultural trips in India, this is an experience to treasure.

Note – The trip was courtesy of banglanatak dot com, a social welfare organisation engaged in inspiring work to develop and sustain crafts and culture in remote areas.