Date: 14-16 January
Venue: Prayagraj (Allahabad)

They say visiting the Kumbh Mela calls for luck – a divine beckoning. That is a spiritual question maybe for another day or era.  But we can say Kumbh Mela is an unforgettable event in one’s lifetime. The Shahi Snan, the Naga Sadhus and Allahabad city – there is so much we want to say. We have already posted the first part of our blog on Kumbh Mela experience. Here is our concluding part.

The dates for Shahi Snan denote the beginning and end of Kumbh Mela. Makar Sankranti was the first Shahi Snan and we were fortunate to be at Prayag that morning.  In fact, we started our walk towards Prayag at 4 in the morning. We did not know the way but that didn’t matter. All we had to do was to follow the crowd. Streams of people from all directions were walking patiently. Irrespective of age, gender, location or any other social strata, the walk towards Prayag was a great leveler. It was a riot of colours around us what with the wide variety of handloom and hand-woven shawls from almost all skill sets from various corner of India. It was virtually an anthropological display of Incredible India.

If you are wondering about things to do at Kumbh, taking the holy dip tops the list. It is said the holy dip at Prayag purifies the soul by purging all sins. To this end, the Makar Sankranti Snan had started from dark. The crack of dawn is the most auspicious hour but that timing is reserved for the sanyasis or the Hindu holy men.  They come in gorgeous processions to the river front riding horses or chariots. Decked in elaborate turbans and garlands, it is clear that they are having the time of their lives. The processions of Naga Sanyasis are the most popular sight. Waving at the cheering crowd and even posing for them, the sadhus are in the best of their spirit. They seem to be totally oblivious to the biting cold at that hour and run towards the water.

The raw energy encourages others to take the plunge. While one would undress and run to the river, his / her companions would guard the belongings. This is how people would take turns. Consequently, the whole riverside is full and there was no space to move. The whole situation was a tad risky and could lead to a stampede any moment. The water is however not deep and an adult could easily stand on the riverbed.  Again this event is not for one with agoraphobia (fear of crowd). After daybreak things became easier. The morning visibility allowed people to move around freely. Notwithstanding the chill and the chaos, the dip was fun and had a cleansing feel.

We are getting many questions about where to eat at Kumbh Mela. The answer is in your accommodation. While there are snack places and Amul and Mother Dairy kiosks, we could not find any suitable place to have a proper meal. However hostels and camps have meal arrangements.

This piece would be incomplete without a few lines about Allahabad city. This was our first time at Kumbh and so wanted to see a little but of the city as well. Allahabad is an old city with a High Court since British era. The city has an old world charm and we have already written about Anand Bhavan Museum. But Allahabad has been decked up with colourful street art in view of Kumbh Mela 2019. The topics started from mythology to politics to national leaders. Not only building walls but the pillars supporting bridges were also dressed up in gay colours. While some of the paintings were amateurish, it did give a festival feel. We saw many foreign tourists at Kumbh who had a field-day clicking these paintings.

Luck or perchance, our Kumbh Mela invite was a great surprise. We have to confess the Kumbh Mela is not like anything we had done before. The sheer assembly of such large number of people, all bound by a common agenda, and the energy that generates should be experienced to be believed.  It is a humbling experience that has left an indelible impression in the mind. Enriched by the trip, here are some dos and don’ts at Kumbh that should be borne in mind specially for first time  visitor.

Dos

1. Book your train tickets adequately early and reach atleast a day before the special dates. There is NO transport available on Shahi Snan days. The best trains for Allahabad include Prayagraj Express, Humsafar Express and Rajdhani Express from New Delhi.
2. We have got many questions as to how to book tents at Kumbh Mela. The best mode to do this is try UP Government websites or go with TRUSTED tour operators. Don’t be misled by fancy tent photographs that agents with vested interests may show you. Please satisfy yourself about all facilities you are getting. Alternatively, you can ditch the tents and put up at a hotel in Allahabad. The hotels are however some distance away from Sangam. Please make sure you check beforehand with the hotel as to commute to Sangam. As we mentioned above, reaching Sangam on Shahi Snan days could be tricky.
3. Carry sanitisers, handsoap, adhesive bandages, tissue papers, disposable towels and drinking water along with you. There is little chance you will find these things in the Kumbh Mela area.
4. Carry light day clothes since the sun is strong and the Kumbh experience involves extensive walking.
5. There are many dispensaries in Kumbh Mela that are well-equipped to handle basic medical problems. Qualified doctors run these clinics. Don’t hesitate to visit if need be.
6. Visit Allahabad Fort and Akshay Vaat temple since these are just on riverfront. These are pieces of history that you wouldn’t want to miss.
7. Take a boat ride on Sangam. One gets a great view of Prayag from here. The flock of water birds, that you get to see up close and personal, is bonus.

Don’ts

1. Avoid booking special trains for Kumbh Mela. These trains have most erratic timings since they are shoved among regular train schedule. Even Railway helplines are not aware of the arrival – departure information for such trains.
2. Avoid reaching Kumbh Mela on Shahi Snan days since reaching the Sangam area on these days is very difficult and may involved walking 10 to 12 km one way. If you want to take the dip on Shahi Snan days, arrive or depart a day or two away.
3. If you want an easy Kumbh Mela experience, avoid Shahi Snan and come in the remaining one and half month Kumbh period. The Kumbh Mela dates are 15^th February to 4^th March 2019.
4. Accommodation can make or break your Kumbh experience so avoid any travel agent / company / facilitator who you cannot trust. Don’t cut corners on research while booking accommodation / transport at Kumbh. Do remember Kumbh Mela, on certain days, sees footfall in crores and any amount of arrangement can fall short.
5. Don’t have a closed mind. If it is your first time at Kumbh, you can make the best of this unique event if you are open to experiences.