Ironically, we reached Modhera Sun Temple at a time when Sun God was throwing his last rays. We had already been wowed at Rani Ki Vav. Yet, the enthralling beauty of this elaborate structure, even more, resplendent at dusk, totally awed us. It was not the first Sun Temple we were visiting, but most spectacular.

Sun Temples in India

Om Japa Kusuma Sankaasham
Kashyapeyam Mahaa Dyutim
Tamorim Sarva Papaghnam
Pranathosmi Divakaram 

Millions of Hindus across the world wake up to the Surya Mantra every morning. This is an ode to Sun God, one of the reigning deities in Hinduism.

Surya or The Sun God was depicted positioned on a chariot being pulled by 7 horses. Some say that the horses depict the seven days of the week. In most iconography, the Sun God would be standing on the chariot. However, at the Katarmal Sun Temple, we saw the Sun God in the rare, seated position.

Surya Temples were prevalent in Northern India and Eastern India, namely Orissa. Sun God symbolizes power. Hence Sun Temples are magnificent imposing structures. However, the trend of building Sun Temples decreased over the centuries and the Sun God was somewhat juxtaposed with other Gods of the Hindu pantheon.

Doing our recent trip to Gujarat we came to know more about this while visiting the Modhera Sun Temple that is sheer gorgeousness.

Modhera Surya Mandir

The Modhera Sun Temple is a grand edifice dedicated to the Sun God. It is spread out and has multiple structures. The temple was built beside the River Pushpavati in Modhera Village near Mehsana, Gujarat. What is the history of Modhera Temple we wondered?

It is said that the temple was built by King Bhima I of the Chalukya dynasty. From what we understand, there is an inscription bearing the date 1083 Vikram Samvat inside the temple. This year corresponds to 1026 – 1027 CE. However, scholars believe that this could be the date of repair or reconstruction after this temple was damaged by the invader Mahmud of Ghazni.

Apparently, Modhera is mentioned in ancient Hindu scriptures like Skanda Puran. As per these scriptures, the forest surrounding the temple was called Dharmaranya or the Forest of Righteousness. Skanda Puran is dated the 8th century. If the temple was referred to in Skanda Puran, it would have to predate the 8th century.

Where is Modhera Sun Temple located?

Interesting trivia, Modhera Sun Temple lies on the Tropic of Cancer in Modhera, District Mehsana, Gujarat. We came to know that not only this Sun Temple but all Sun Temples are built on the Tropic of Cancer. At one point, we could not help ourselves but got down and took a photo.

The architecture of Modhera Sun Temple

The architecture of Modhera Temple is very elaborate. While a lot has been destroyed by way of attacks and usual wear and tear, what remains is still mindboggling.

Surya Kunda at Modhera Sun Temple

The dome of the Sun Temple was visible from a distance. However, this did not prepare us for the spectacle we were about to witness. The water reservoir, more like a deep pool, is overflowing with ornamentation. Steps in geometric patterns lead to the bottom of the pool.

Small shrines are built at various spots in the reservoir. It looks like an array of equidistant mounds or hillocks. While we had seen beautiful water reservoirs in Rani ki Vav and Adalaj, those were more like deep wells while this was expanded and open. One can only imagine how beautiful Surya Kund would be in the monsoon.

Sabha Mandapa and Gudha Mandapa

A grand flight of stairs from the Surya Kund leads to a gorgeous gazebo. An ornamental ceiling is held up with 52 pillars here. It is said that the 52 pillars signify the 52 weeks in a year. The Sabha Mandap is perhaps where assemblies and performances would be held.

On the other side of the gazebo is the sanctum sanctorum or the Gudha Mandapa. This shrine is shaped somewhat like a chariot, perhaps in ode to the chariot of the Sun God. It is heavily ornamented outside, and what we saw in the darkness, the inside as well. In keeping with the sanctorum styles all over India, for privacy and security of the jewels on the idol, this place is small. The urn on top of the main shrine reminds us of Konarak, the other piece of gorgeousness in ode to the Sun God.

There is no idol for worship in Modhera. In fact, unlike the rare Katarmal Sun Temple, the Modhera Sun Temple is a historical piece of architecture under the Aegis of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). No worship takes place.

Erotica in Modhera Sun Temple

Interestingly Modhera Sun Temple carvings contained erotica like Khajuraho temples

Khajuraho temples are known for their love sculptures. We have also come across erotica on the outer walls of Nanda Devi Temple in the mountains of Almora, Uttarakhand, and Muralidhar Krishna Temple, Naggar, Himachal Pradesh.

The difference is that in Khajuraho, the erotica is on the outside walls. Modhera designers had taken the concept a notch upward. Quite by chance, we find lovemaking and intimacy motifs on the pillars inside the sanctum sanctorum as well. Some of the panels display groups of people in what can only be called a celebration of love. We later see carvings depicting lovemaking on the outer walls as well.

The physical act of love, in that era, was clearly celebrated in India way more than just reproduction. How else could it be depicted in the innermost sanctum of God?

Modhera in the evening

We were a little sad that we reached the Sun Temple late. But that turns out to be a blessing. While the temple premises are vacated at sundown, 6 ish in the evening, we are allowed to hang around at the periphery.

And then bingo! The whole structure is suddenly ablaze with a million lights. The Modhera Sun Temple is illuminated every evening as a thousand Diwalis celebrate together. The majestic reddish-brown stone structure against the blackish-blue evening sky, when lit with millions of yellow lights, it is a feast. This spectacle can be compared only with the sets of opulent Bhansali movies.

Modhera Dance Festival

The Tourism Corporation of Gujarat organizes an annual dance festival in the Modhera Sun Temple premises. Classical performers and art aficionados from all over the country and even other parts of the world assemble at Modhera. Classical Indian dances against the backdrop of the beautiful Sun Temple is an ethereal experience.

How to reach Sun Temple Modhera

We took the air route and flew from Delhi to Ahmedabad, the nearest airport to Modhera. The Sun Temple is about 100 km from Ahmedabad and is less than 2 hours drive on excellent roads. If you are taking the train, you will have to drop at Mehsana Railway Station. The Sun Temple is about 25 km from here.

The best time to visit the Sun Temple

The Sun Temple is out in the open. Moreover, this part of Gujarat tends to get very hot in the summer. Hence the best season would be during October to March.

Nearby attractions to Modhera Sun Temple

If you are traveling to Modhera, you can also visit Rani ki Vav and the ancient city of Patan, now known for the double-ikkat style of Patola weaving on the same day. All these are day activities. So do start early from your accommodation.

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Is it worth it?

Modhera Sun Temple is a bright star on the architectural horizon of Gujarat. In the year 2014, this piece of our proud heritage was included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Although it was destroyed multiple times, what remains of it is still a splendor and we were ecstatic after viewing this piece of somewhat dynamic art. It is a must-visit spot in India. We intend to come back to Gujarat and visit the Modhera Sun Temple again. The beauty, stories, and details are somewhat blinding and difficult to absorb in a single visit. Like the sun, this Surya Mandir has enormous repeat value.

P.S. This post is in collaboration with Gujarat Tourism, Ministry of Tourism, and Incredible India. Our wholehearted thanks for the riveting experiences.