It was a cloudy Sunday noon and we were walking down Southern Avenue. The cold breeze from the lake opposite made us tug our shawls and jackets. A standee in front of Birla Academy caught our attention. There was a presentation on Maharis, the Devdasis of Jagannath Temple, Puri. This was to be followed by a Sambalpuri drum performance. The show was to be hosted by Odissi exponent Guru Sharmila Biswas. We walked in only to be welcomed with tea and biscuits – just what was needed to set the mood.

It was already late and we could hear sounds from the auditorium. Guru Biswas had already started speaking giving a brief introduction on the Mahari culture of Jagannath Temple. They were young girls who were married to the Jagannath idol and were to spend their lives in music, dance, and other forms of service to God. After the Devadasi system was abolished the Mahari culture, now outlawed, was lost. However, Sharmila Biswas had located senior Maharis Shashimani and Parasmani and spent some years with them. Her experiences were recorded in a documentary. We saw clips from that piece with explanations by Ms Biswas.

The documentary thankfully was not in a dull interview format. It was more by way of casual and fun interaction between the two exuberant Maharis and Ms Biswas. There were also bytes from experts in Mahari music, scholars, and researchers. We came to know about various festivals and practices of the Jagannath Temple that have now been discontinued. The documentary had songs and dances by Parashmani and Swarnamani Maharis. Ms Biswas and her students took turns to demonstrate sequences by dancing on stage and enriched our experience.

In a final presentation, the veteran Maharis were attired in the full ceremonial attire complete with ornate gold jewellery in exquisite designs. Food for thought – while the Mahari dance led way to the present-day Odissi, Ms Biswas said that most of the dance movements and also the ornament style were lost arts now.

The second part of the afternoon was out on the lawn. A colourful shamiana protected us from the cold winds. But very soon the band from Sambalpur took over. They played a variety of drums like the dhak, tasa, and loha which had antelope horns sticking out from them. With one vocalist and three drummers, the very Indian rock band soon had the viewers dancing to their beats.

The complete experience was a fusion of education and entertainment as well as cultural trip into Odisha.

Such is the charm of travelling in Kolkata. You never know which gold nugget of art and culture awaits you at the next corner. This event was part of the annual exhibition of Birla Academy. While the presentation on Maharis and the performance by Sambalpur drummers were the last cultural programs, the art exhibition is on till 9 February 2024.

Birla Academy of Art and Culture

Lovingly called Birla Academy, this is a three-storey art gallery beside the verdant Rabindra Sarovar area. It houses a museum that highlights the evolution of Indian art and sculpture from traditional forms to contemporary styles. It also hosts art exhibitions as well as a variety of statement events all around the year. They also conduct art classes here.

The sprawling lawns at Birla Academy have an amphitheater that has open-air performances. What charms us the most is Mangal Madhab – the huge monolith Krishna statue that is a fusion of traditional and modern aesthetics. Krishna here has his flute stuck inside his waistband while the half-closed eyes regale with peace and piety.

How to reach Birla Academy

Birla Academy is prominently located in South Calcutta. Any app cab would bring you’re here. If you want to take the Kolkata Metro, the nearest metro station to Birla Academy is Rabindra Sarovar. Or, to experience the Kolkata way of life, take the yellow ambassador taxi and they would easily drop you at Birla Academy. There are many buses that ply in front of Birla Academy too. Some of these are SD4; 1B but there are many more. Just ask around.

What else to do near Birla Academy

There are many attractions near Birla Academy that are worth your time.

Rabindra Sarovar / Lake, Kolkata

First is the Rabindra Sarovar popularly called the “Lake.” The huge lakeside has been beautified and is popular for people going for walks. Lined with trees, the charm of the place attracts photographers as well as Instagrammers in herds. Also, it is the most popular dating area in Kolkata.

Lake Kali Bari, Kolkata

Second, just beside Birla Academy is the Lake Kali Bari. This temple has one the most gorgeous Kali statue in the area draped in bright Benarasi saris and ornaments.

Maa Phire Elo, Durga Museum, Rabindra Sarobar

Durga Puja in Kolkata is a festival of creativity and the whole city becomes an art gallery. Extremely artistic Durga statues are created, and as per tradition, immersed in water on Dashami every year. However, since the last few years, some select statues have been preserved in a museum inside Rabindra Sarovar. A visit to this museum will give you an impression of how ingenious our traditional Durga idol can be.

What to eat near Birla Academy

Maharani Tea Stall

Walking distance from Birla Academy is the Maharani tea stall. They started with tea but their kachori, jalebi, and malpuas are droolworthy. It is not strictly Bengali. However, Kolkata has been a melting pot of cultures and different communities have contributed to the city’s eclectic tastes. Maharani therefore is a pocket-friendly must-try. The only problem is that they do not have any sitting arrangement.

Udupi, Kolkata

A century-old South Indian eatery, Rao’s Udipi is one of the most popular vegetarian food place in Kolkata. It is a simple restaurant overflowing with diners almost all the time. Yet, once you are here, you would realise the reasons for its popularity.

Café in Hazra

The Café at Hazra Crossing, just beside Jatin Das Park Metro Station is about 2 km from here. However, the centuries-old cafe have been serving tea and snacks since British era when cafes were uncommon. We love their fish fries but their pudding is like a lost art. Excuse the repetition but their pudding is to die for. Kolkata oozes vintage and if you like that era, the Café is a must-visit.

The best way to know a city is to take it easy. Birla Academy is an arty side of Kolkata which may not make it to the list of most popular attractions of Kolkata. Yet it epitomises what Kolkata stands for and you would surely not regret the half-a-day you might spend here.