Shantiniketan Diaries-Exploring the Art and Soul of Bengal

Oct 3, 2023 | Travel

The signature red soil of Santiniketan punctuated with the bright orange flame of the forest bloom and the peace and quiet have drawn nature lovers including Rabindranath Tagore.

Now that Shantiniketan has been declared a UNESCO Heritage site, many of you must be making plans to visit Tagore’s “Abode of Peace”. The UNESCO tag should indeed boost tourism in this part of India.

While the UNESCO recognition is for Shantiniketan, many other charming places in the vicinity show you a very offbeat India. Here is a list of places that you can visit in the course of a trip to Shantiniketan.

History of Santiniketan

Santiniketan – The abode of peace was established by Maharshi Debendranath about 250 km away from Kolkata. Many years later, his son Rabindranath started a school and later raised it to the Visva Bharati University – the union of the world with India. The idea was to create a liberal academic environment based on the ancient education systems of India. Apart from academics, music, art, and vocational skills were also nurtured under Tagore’s patronage.

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Tagore’s eclectic approach worked through all the ways of his life. He had built a host of buildings here as part of the university as well as his dwelling units. The architecture here is a unique narrative influenced by various Asian styles.

What to see at Santiniketan

Uttarayan Complex that houses Rabindra Museum, Kala Bhavan, Kalo Bari, frescoes by Nandalal Bose on university walls, and the refined sculptures by Ram Kinkar Bej should indeed be visited if you are here. The Uttarayan Complex is closed on Wednesday as that is the official holiday of Viswa Bharati University. Slightly ahead is the building “Pratichi”, the residence of the renowned Nobel-laureate Amartya Sen who hails from Santiniketan.

Also Read: A complete travel guide to Shantiniketan

Sonajhuri or Khoai Haat

Sonajhuri are big trees with hanging golden blooms. In winter months, the golden flowers form a golden carpet on the forest floor thus the name – Shonajhuri. This area is now a spot for a weekend flea market where people from nearby villages bring artsy clothes – saris, shirts, kurtas and stoles, bedcovers, crafts, and leather batik items unique to Santiniketan.

Santhal groups break into folk dances and visitors are welcome to shake a leg with them. Baul singers sing soulful songs at another end. It is a humble yet joyful setting with a unique flavour. Take pictures of the beautiful Shonajhuri trees and the Khoai, browse through the affordable goods on sale, and enjoy rural Bengal music and dance.

Amar Kutir, Shantiniketan

Amar Kutir is not part of Viswa Bharati institution. Then what is Amar Kutir famous for? Amar Kutir in Sriniketan was established in the 1930s to promote the local crafts and skills such as weaving, batik, leatherwork, and dhokra. But this was a subterfuge. The premises were used by revolutionaries of peasant movements who would meet here and strategize against British rule. Post-independence, Amar Kutir became a centre for training and selling handicrafts with new developments like kantha embroidery, sholapith carvings, and so on. Amar Kutir is about 5 km from Santiniketan and you would need a rickshaw or similar simple transport to reach here.

You can shop for quality handicraft items at very affordable prices. The leather batik work here is sought-after all over the world. You can buy kurtas, sarees, bags, wallets, footwear, décor items and so on. Also, the route from Santiniketan to Amar Kutir is very picturesque. It is like a village-themed painting in certain parts. You would surely enjoy the journey.

Surul Rajbari

Surul Rajbari, the zamindar’s bungalow is about 5 km from Santiniketan. Almost 300 years old, it is one of the best-maintained private buildings of that era. The moment you enter the courtyard you are transported back in time to another era. The Durga Puja here is as old as the building. That is a grand affair and visitors come to see this from afar. Many cultural performances are held during the festival too. There are a pair of old Bengal terracotta temples adjacent to the palace. The intricately designed tiles are mind-boggling.

Also Read: Kolkata’s Durga Puja Is Now UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage

Take a round of the sections of the palaces that are open to visitors, soak in the old charm and take pictures, look closely at the unique terracotta tiles laid temples outside the palace, stop at any confectioner on the way to have the best rosogollas ever.

Kankalitala

Kankalitala, a revered Hindu pilgrimage site is about 10 km from Santiketan. It is a Shaktipeeth and it is said that the Goddess’s waist (Kankal in Sanskrit) fell here. The temple houses a Kali idol and the prayer process is fuss-free. The surroundings are calm and serene with trees providing the necessary shade. The route from Santiniketan is through paddy fields and villages. The sight is succour to the city-worn eyes. So, whether you are a believer or not, Kankalitala is worth a visit. Offer prayers if you wish to, no one pressurises you; roam in the surrounding area covered with trees; stop at local confectionery to have sweets and mishti doi in their purest forms.

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Shantiniketan - A UNESCO heritage Site

Tarapith

If you have an extra day, you may consider visiting the Tarapith Temple which is about 2 hours drive from Santiniketan. This is a 13th-century shrine dedicated to Goddess Tara. As per some beliefs, She is an incarnation of the Buddhist Goddess Tara. Tarapith therefore is a culmination of religious exploration with a fusion of Hindu and Tantric religious practices. Tarapith draws visitors from across the globe. The temple is in Old Bengal style and the darshan starts from as early as 4 a.m. The crematorium adjacent to the temple is open to visitors who look out for goosebumps. Visit Tarapith Temple, the Mahashamshan, or the revered crematorium nearby and memorabilia of Shadhak Bamakhyapa, a revered saint.

Getting around Santiniketan

Santiniketan is a cosy place and you can get around on cycle rickshaws that are now being replaced by battery rickshaws. You can also cover most of Santiniketan on foot. For Surul and Kankalitala you might need an autorickshaw or you may hire a car. For Tarapith, you need to hire a taxi or take a train from Santiniketan.

How to reach Santiniketan

The nearest railway station to Santiniketan is Bolpur which is serviced by many long-distance trains. The nearest airport to Santiniketan is at Andal about one and half hours drive.

How far is Kolkata to Santinketan by car?

You can drive to Santikinetan from Kolkata on excellent roads. It would take you about 4 and a half hours including a halt at Shaktigarh to taste Langcha, a softer version of gulab jamun.
That’s a must-try.

Where to stay in Santiniketan

Starting from basic hotels to quaint earthy resorts, innumerable lodging options in Santiniketan fit your budget. However, given the rising popularity of Santiniketan, you are better off booking ahead if you are travelling on a weekend or a holiday.

Santiniketan was not meant to be a tourist spot. It is a tangible form of Tagore’s philosophy of peace and liberalism. A lot has changed in this little town. Yet, the evenings are still peaceful. If you look up at the sky, you can still see the most beautiful web of stars and planets. Visit Santiniketan for the vibe which ties you to nature.

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22 Comments

  1. Trisha

    I have visited Shantiniketan as a teen and now your words bring back memories. I would definitely like to visit again.

    Reply
    • Delhifundos

      Shantiniketan has enormous repeat value

      Reply
  2. Richard Lowe

    Looks like a fascinating place. I love visiting places with lots of history.

    Reply
    • Delhifundos

      Shantiniketan is more culture than history.

      Reply

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