We had to pinch ourselves to believe it was not a dream. In front of us was the Gangotri Mandir, a famous pilgrimage site part of the Char Dham Yatra.

Char Dham Yatra

Akshay Tritiya is a very auspicious day in the Hindu calendar. The Char Dham Yatra which closes on Deepawali, commences this day. After a hiatus of about 6 months, the first shrine or Dham to open this year was the Gangotri Temple. A large number of devotees and travellers had gathered around the temple to witness the event. We were blessed to be a part of this festive gathering.

In fact, we were already at Harsil the previous day after a 14 hours’ drive from Delhi. It had snowed that evening and the road was scenic and full of anticipation.

PIN IT FOR LATER READ

Harsil to Gangotri

The Gangotri temple was located about 30 km away from Harsil, and it took around 40-45 minutes to drive there from The Prakriti Retreat, our lodging here. We were being driven by Satyenderji in a Bolero taxi arranged by the resort. During the first few minutes of the drive, it was evident he was a very responsible driver and we could relax during the rest of the tour.

The road from Harsil to Gangotri was absolutely breathtaking. We were surrounded by magnificent snow-covered Himalayan Mountains, a beautiful blue sky, and tall green trees lining both sides of the road. The silvery peaks around us reflected the sunlight and promised a glorious day. It was the kind of scenery that city folks like us would often dream of and happily drive for hours just to experience for a few days. More like stepping into a magical world.

On the way, we spotted many saffron-clad sadhus travelling up towards Gangotri. Today was indeed a special day in this region.

Is Gangotri Temple at the Source of Ganga?

Gangotri Temple is in ode to the River Ganga. It is located near but not exactly at the source of the River Ganga. The actual origin of the river is at Gaumukh in the Gangotri glacier, 19 km away from Gangotri. Gaumukh is accessible by trekking and is not reachable by many devotees. The Gangotri Temple is built at a little lower altitude that is connected by driveable roads so as to make it approachable to more devotees.

Gangotri Temple Reopening

Given the extreme cold in Gangotri, the Ganga Temple is shut during winter and the deity is carried down to Village Mukhba in Harsil, Uttarakhand for worship. Mukhba is about 20 km lower than Gangotri. Once winter gives way to spring, the Ganga deity is carried back to Gangotri Temple, Her chief abode, amidst a joyous procession on Akshay Tritiya.

Although Akshay Tritiya is a holy day, there is an auspicious time, or Muhurt when the deity is re-established in the Gangotri shrine. In order to meet that timing, the deity was carried out of Mukhba Temple the previous day and temporarily lodged at the Prachin Bhairav Mandir located between Mukhba and Gangotri. This gave a head start and on the morning of Akshay Tritiya, the deity was carried up to Gangotri in a happy procession.

After a short drive from Harsil, we reached the Gangotri temple. Satyenderji dropped us at the parking area, and from there, it was a short walk to the shrine. Like every religious spot, this walkway was lined with shops selling worship paraphernalia, souvenirs, generic winter wear, and small bottles to large canisters for carrying back water from the Ganga.

The mood at the temple’s entrance gate was filled with happy divinity. Devotees, priests, and tourists from India and abroad were all smiling and laughing. They had gathered around the temple to witness the opening of its doors, known as “Kapaat” in Hindi. We spotted security personnel stationed at different corners of the temple, ensuring the safety and orderliness of the place. They looked jovial too. The sound of temple bells, the sight of vibrant marigold flowers, and the presence of saffron-clad sages all around created a surreal ambiance.

The Ganga Doli (palanquin carrying the deity) reached Gangotri Dham amidst the beating of drums, joyous chants, a lot of flowers, and fanfare. It was a moment of great celebration. Was it devotion to the Goddess Ganga or was it relief that the crippling winter was over for at least 8 months? It could be a mix of both.

In the background, we could hear the Garhwal Rifles army band playing to commemorate the Gangotri temple procession. They would perform here until the deity was placed inside the temple. There were helicopters flying above adding to the grandeur of the ceremony.

Soon it was the auspicious time to reinstall the deity of Goddess Ganga inside the temple. People were chanting and praising the Goddess with great enthusiasm. We were not allowed inside the temple just then since the Chief Minister of Uttarakhand was present. Thereafter it was long but a patient queue. Given the huge crowd around us, we were hardly in for a minute inside the sanctum sanctorum. The deity inside was a golden blur covered with bright silks and garlands.

In addition to the main Ganga Doli that was to be placed in the Gangotri shrine, many people carried their local idols from their respective villages to this holy place on the propitious occasion of Akshay Tritiya. They engaged in prayers and rituals near the banks of the sacred Ganga River.

The Ganga at Gangotri

After the shrine, we visited the banks of the Ganga flowing by the side. Hundreds of people were taking dips here irrespective of age or gender. The cold water did not seem to deter most people. Some senior people were sitting on the bank unable to get in the river for the dip. But where there is a will, there is a way they say! Their companions were filling buckets from the river and showering it on them. That seemed like a job-well-done kind of jugaad!

Gangotri is almost at the source of the River Ganga. The water here is sparkling clean and the river moves fast. Gradually, as Ganga reaches the plains, the water becomes muddy and slower. And yes, polluted. Towards the end of its journey where Ganga flows into the Bay of Bengal, it becomes sluggish.

River Ganga is a metaphor for life we thought. As children, we are fresh and fast. As adults, our lives are encumbered with issues and troubles that we need to clean up on our way. In old age, we become sluggish till we blend back with the universe. Deep!

Other Spots Near Gangotri Temple

A flight of steps between the parking area to Gangotri Temple leads to Gauri Kund and then Surya Kund. These are pools of water and waterfalls that have many legends associated with them. The waterfalls and the water bodies that are formed in the lap of the Himalayas are very picturesque.

We visited these spots after visiting Gangotri Temple. After the commotion there, the silence here, punctuated only by pouring water, was extremely meditative. If you are at the Gangotri Temple, do not miss Surya Kund and Gauri Kund.

How to Reach Gangotri Temple

The nearest airport is Jolly Grant in Dehradun. The nearest railway station is Rishikesh and the nearest town is Uttarkashi. You can take private taxis, shared cabs as well as buses to Gangotri. In case you choose to drive, please be cautious. Attempt driving if you are an expert (yes!) driving on steep, narrow winding roads with a lot of tourist buses, small car traffic, and truck during peak season.

Where to Stay at Gangotri Temple

There are many hostels, tourist lodges, and motels in this area that cater to devotees, tourists, and trekkers. Most places are basic and budget-friendly.

 

Are Ganga and Bhagirathi the Same?

There is a long legend involved here and the following is a summary. Sixty thousand princes of Suryavansh (Surya dynasty) were burnt to ashes by the wrath of sage Kapil since they had disturbed his meditation. Taking a dip in the water of the celestial River Ganga could only save them.

Bhagirath, a descendant of this dynasty, satisfied Lords Shiva and Brahma and they allowed the Ganga River to flow to earth from heaven. But the earth was not strong enough to handle the strong flow of Ganga and ran the risk of drowning. Hence, Lord Shiva held River Ganga in his matted hair and broke her flow so that the earth would not be flooded.

Given that Bhagirath’s efforts brought River Ganga to earth, Ganga is also called River Bhagirathi.

Geographically, Bhagirathi and Alaknanda are two rivers that join as one and became one at Devprayag.

Other Attractions Near Gangotri Temple

If you are done with visiting the Gangotri Temple, there are many other spots nearby that you might find attractive. You may go for an easy trek to Gartang Galli, visit the submerged ancient Kalp Kedar Temple, visit the summer abode of Goddess Ganga at Mukhba Village, take a walk at the idyllic Bagori village, or just chill at the many cafes in the arty Harsil Market.

Each and every one of the above activities are unparalleled experience and would add different dimensions to your trip.

Pro Tips:

• The weather fluctuates between heat and cold even during the summer months. Carry warm clothing judiciously. Caps and scarves may come in handy.
• We had wholesome lunch at a dhaba between Gangotri temple and parking. Many such vegetarian food spots here offer sweets, snacks, and meals.
• Gauri Kund and Surya Kund are not accessible to people with mobility issues.
• If you have motion sickness, do carry remedies.

Visiting the Gangotri temple had always been a cherished dream, and we are overjoyed that we could surprisingly fulfill it during our trip to Harsil. A heady combination of divinity, nature, and art – it was a calling!