Guldaar Basera – A homestay in Ranikhet, is run by our friend Alka Kaushik, a seasoned journalist who spent years navigating the fast-paced life of Delhi. With her roots deep in the Kumaon hills, she eventually decided to return home, build a home for herself, and open it to guests. Now, it offers a comfortable stay with a mix of local Kumaoni heritage and modern facilities for travellers visiting Ranikhet.

Sometime earlier, Alka had mentioned that she was building something in her village, but we did not realise how much work and thought had gone into it. When Alka forwarded an invite to experience Kumaoni Holi, we did not let go of the opportunity to check it out first-hand. We pulled up to Guldaar Basera and paused for a moment. The scale and beauty of the place stood out, especially in such a faraway hilltop.

Stay at Guldaar Basera

The homestay is quiet, meticulously done, and away from crowded tourist spots. The house itself feels more like a boutique home than a typical hotel. There are five thoughtfully designed rooms-three on the ground floor and two upstairs, where Alka lives. Every corner is aesthetic, and the little details stand out. We were not surprised that there were books placed around, and the balcony was a good spot to sit, read and watch the sunset.

We spent our evenings huddled around the fireplace where conversations stretched long past dinner. For those who cannot fully unplug, Wi-Fi is available, and the area has a solid mobile network. All in all, Guldaar Basera has an understated luxury. You get comfortable quickly, and it soon feels like home. Plus, given that we had travelled from Delhi during Kumaoni Holi, staying here made it easy to see the local celebrations, music, and traditions up close.

Food at Guldaar Basera

Food here deserves special mention as it is like home food, but not so simple that you forget you are on holiday. We relished simple Kumaoni dishes – our beloved madwe ki roti, pahadi raita, and Holi special aloo ke gutke. Noteworthy is that Alka is not just running a business; she is trying to build a community of self-reliant women.

The homestay functions with local help, creating employment opportunities in this area. We met the amazing women from Malla Biswa village who work here. It is inspiring to see how they have grown. Helpers who were once only used to cooking basic village meals are now whipping up everything from traditional Kumaoni dishes to South Indian breakfast, Punjabi lunch, and even continental soups and pasta for dinner.

The Story Behind the Name “Guldaar Basera”

The name Guldaar Basera, we assumed, was inspired by the flowers that this part of India is so blessed with. But then we learnt that in the local Kumaoni dialect, “Guldaar” means leopard. This area was apparently home to leopards and other wild animals before human habitation set in. So the name is not about flowers, but about the leopards found in this area earlier. We stand corrected. The leopard here is not just folklore. Closed-circuit cameras routinely capture images of leopards prowling outside at night. But we were told the leopards do not look at humans as food. Still, caution is advised, and we were reminded not to go outside post sundown.

Holi in Kumaon

Cultural travel in India has been on the rise. Our stay at Guldaar Basera gave us another opportunity to immerse ourselves in the vibrant living traditions of the Kumaon zone of Uttarakhand. Kumaoni Holi was new for us, and what an experience it turned out to be! We saw Mahila Holi – groups of local women going from home to home and singing traditional Holi songs. And then there was Khadi Holi, where men visit every house, singing Holi folk songs that echo through the hills. We realised, like the popular Christmas carols, we in India had our own carol traditions. The singing stayed with us. It was different from anything we had heard earlier. While these festivities start well before the day of the actual festival, on the day of Holi, the villagers celebrate with dance, music, and colours. This time, on the day of Holi, the villagers included us in their colour splashing, and that completed the Holi experience for us.

Things to Do in Ranikhet

While it is tempting to just sit on the balcony with a book, there is plenty to explore nearby:

• Village Walks: Alka arranges easy walks around Malla Biswa village. The village has a mix of lived-in homes and some old abandoned houses, which feel a bit eerie at times. At the same time, you will see rhododendron and peach blossoms, which add colour and balance the mood. You can walk through narrow lanes, see traditional stone houses with carved wooden doors, notice Aipan floor designs, and also have small conversations with local people.
• Jhula Devi Temple: A short trip away, this temple is famous for the thousands of bells tied by devotees. The goddess here sits on a jhula (swing), giving the temple its name.
• Ranikhet Club: For a bit of history, visit this 19th-century heritage property. It is a great spot for a slow afternoon of chai and snacks in a colonial-era setting.
• KRC Woollens: Located in a repurposed 1890s church, this initiative by the Kumaon Regimental Centre supports war widows. You can watch women knit or work on handlooms. We bought a scarf as a souvenir. You can pick up some beautiful hand-woven shawls and contribute to the noble cause.
• Ranikhet Fernery: You must also visit the Ranikhet Fernery, India’s largest open-air fernery that has been developed by the Uttarakhand Forest Department. We wandered through four acres of lush trails featuring over 120 species. It felt like stepping into a dream forest and was easily one of the most peaceful spots of our trip.
• Forest Healing Centre, Ranikhet: We are somewhat out of words to explain this place. Nevertheless, it is a quiet forest area where you can just slow down. You can hug a tree, take deep breaths of fresh mountain air, climb a small machan for a better view, or simply sit and do nothing for some time. Entry ticket is ₹50 per person, so it is an easy and budget-friendly stop near Ranikhet.
• Local Sweets: Do not leave without stopping at Pandey Sweet Shop for some bal mithai (the iconic chocolate-coloured fudge with sugar balls) and “chocolate” barfi. During our umpteen trips to Uttarakhand, carrying back bal mithai is a constant.

Also read: Food that is worth travelling for

How to Reach Guldaar Basera

There are many ways you can reach Ranikhet and from there Guldaar Basera:

• By Train: The nearest railway station is Kathgodam, which is about 75–80 km away. We took this route and from there, we took a taxi for a scenic 3-hour drive up to Ranikhet.
• By Road: If you are driving from Delhi, it is roughly a 9 to 10-hour journey via Nainital or Almora.
• The Final Stretch: The homestay is located in Malla Biswa village, about 200–300 metres below the main road. A short, pleasant walk or a quick downhill drive brings you right to the doorstep.

We had travelled from Delhi to experience the famous Kumaoni Holi, and Guldaar Basera turned out to be the front-row seat to the local traditions. The memories of a relaxed stay, endless food, and picnics all around will linger long with us. If you are planning a Ranikhet trip and want a peaceful and comfortable place to stay, you can definitely consider this option.